Monday, October 5
Three Peaks, Slow Peaks
Whilst doing the last minute packing earlier this evening I was listening to BBC Radio 4's CostingThe Earth program (On Listen Again Now for the next 7 days).
"Every year around 60,000 people set out on the Three Peaks Challenge, aiming to climb the highest mountains in England, Wales and Scotland. Most do it to raise money for charity but there are increasing worries that the challenge is putting too much pressure on the environment, destroying some of our most beautiful places"
I was half listening to the usual pros & cons. All equally valid in their way, but nothing unusual.
Then towards the program's end a Snowdonia National Park Ranger provides a very evenly balanced view on mountain usage and its users. During his piece, he comes up with an interesting line of thought as to the Time element of the Challenge, citing that as one of the underlying causes that inevitably leads to the concentration of so many people gathering in a few very specific spots, typically at unsocial hours.
The program is worth listening to for this section alone (IMHO) suggesting a possible way for such Charity Challenges to continue into the future, whilst balancing local sensibilities.
I'm reminded of a comment attributed to Wainwright on hearing that someone had recently run the Pennine Way in under 3 days
"Why?"
Whilst it wasn't expressly said the program left me with an intriguing idea for a new event of this type.
Welcome to 'The Three Peaks Slow Challenge'.
Think about it for a moment........
Forget 3 peaks in 24 hours.
How about 3 peaks in as long a period as it takes to properly saviour each mountain?
Possibly start with different ascent & descent routes. Then build in timing each peak's top to enjoy a sunrise, sunset, or even perhaps a night on the mountain.
Certainly consider banning the use of mobile phones, unless by the Group Leader in the event of an emergency. With event exclusion being a penalty for abuse, especially when involving Mountain Rescue Services.
How about a 'Guess the Number' lottery for items of litter picked up along the way? A different way to garnish additional donations whilst being of immense usefulness.
Maybe even a 3 peaks - 3 wildcamps approach for instance? (That's not really going to affect most of us regular wildcampers by the way. We tend to steer clear of such peaks, due to their over popularity)
Lets take it further still. The winner (because such things always seem to turn into a competition) - the slowest time to "do" the 3 Peaks, with the most amount of enjoyment. Choose your own measurement.
Think the idea might catch on?
Certainly more of a Challenge from what I can see.Labels: Lake District, media, Scotland, Wales
Monday, March 2
Can you help - West Highland Way
No excuse for nicking this content from the ever excellent Grough
"Police and mountain rescuers are searching for a man who is missing ...The 48-year-old is believed to be in the Blanefield area, near the southern end of the West Highland Way...The man is described as 5ft 11in (1.80m) tall, with brown hair. He is believed to be wearing a black jacket.
Central Scotland Police say they need to trace the man as a matter of urgency"
For anyone in the area, or on the WHW at present.
I've checked the local news service and didn't find any update so I guess that means a look-out is still required.
Update Tues 3/3 - The search continues: "Adrian Park was last seen on Saturday in Milngavie, the north-Glasgow suburb that is the start point for walkers tackling the 153km (95-mile) route. He was reported missing about 7pm after failing to return home in the Blanefield area"
Sunday, July 13
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge - Huh?
It's been a few days since I posted about the Ten Peaks Challenge. So I was a little surprised to see I'm apparently the first to start filling the pot when I popped by today to sort it out.
Surely there's more of out there prepared to spare a few coppers. Or has the over stimulated media reports of "Credit Crunch" (WTF?) scared everyone into hiding cash under the mattress?
Surely not.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Wednesday, July 9
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge - Update
I had a progress update earlier today from Donny, one of the masterminds behind the TenPeaks Charity Challenge)
The challenge's website has just been set up with a 'Just Giving page' for on-line donation to either (or both?) of the nominated charities.
This is an interesting alternative to many of the fund raising ideas that we see each year - climbing Scotland's ten highest peaks, from bottom to top, in ten days, all wildcamping as they go (that's a total ascent of 3,781 metres higher than Mt Everest)
The trip has now been moved back to September to give more time for fund raising before the team spring into action.
So now M&G have finished their 'little' wander perhaps you may want to help this one along to its £10,000 target...........and perhaps spread the word a little further? Its a big target, for a big challenge.
(And thanks for the plug on the Thank You page - that Derwent Duck of mine certainly gets around these days)Labels: media, Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Monday, July 7
The Outdoors Station - Cape Wrath Trail Podcasts
Following my recent nudge to Podcast Bob to get his Cape Wrath Podcast link sorted out his response has been to post Part One and also Part 2 as well.
Like Sporks, you can never have enough of Bob's Marvellous Molten Mutterings (lol)
(Right click and 'Save Target As' to download)
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 1 : Download MP3 File
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 2 : Download MP3 File
Friday, June 6
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge
I first bumped into Donald on the uk walking newsgroup when he mentioned his plans for a charity walking challenge.
Well 'bumped into' is not quite the right phrase. Having been involved in this sort of operation before I quietly tipped him off on the response he could expect on the thread. And boy did he get it, but managed to handle the various flack with suitable aplomb.
Donald's involved with the TenPeaks Charity Challenge which now has its own website, and its one with a real difference setting it apart from the normal charity ideas.
"A team of 3 ......... will spend ten days in August......climbing Scotland’s ten highest mountains from bottom to top with no traversing involved. They will do one mountain a day and will be unsupported in their attempt. All food and water will be brought with them and they will be camping for the whole 10 days"
£30k is the target, so BIG thinking all the way with Don's bunch. Details on the event, operation & how to donate on the site.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Friday, January 4
Grough Outdoor website news and more
I can't for the life of me remember how I tripped across Gough - "the inside view of the outdoor world", but I'm glad I did.
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links. Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Monday, December 31
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
"Every year around 60,000 people set out on the Three Peaks Challenge, aiming to climb the highest mountains in England, Wales and Scotland. Most do it to raise money for charity but there are increasing worries that the challenge is putting too much pressure on the environment, destroying some of our most beautiful places"
I was half listening to the usual pros & cons. All equally valid in their way, but nothing unusual.
Then towards the program's end a Snowdonia National Park Ranger provides a very evenly balanced view on mountain usage and its users. During his piece, he comes up with an interesting line of thought as to the Time element of the Challenge, citing that as one of the underlying causes that inevitably leads to the concentration of so many people gathering in a few very specific spots, typically at unsocial hours.
The program is worth listening to for this section alone (IMHO) suggesting a possible way for such Charity Challenges to continue into the future, whilst balancing local sensibilities.
I'm reminded of a comment attributed to Wainwright on hearing that someone had recently run the Pennine Way in under 3 days
"Why?"
Whilst it wasn't expressly said the program left me with an intriguing idea for a new event of this type.
Welcome to 'The Three Peaks Slow Challenge'.
Think about it for a moment........
Forget 3 peaks in 24 hours.
How about 3 peaks in as long a period as it takes to properly saviour each mountain?
Possibly start with different ascent & descent routes. Then build in timing each peak's top to enjoy a sunrise, sunset, or even perhaps a night on the mountain.
Certainly consider banning the use of mobile phones, unless by the Group Leader in the event of an emergency. With event exclusion being a penalty for abuse, especially when involving Mountain Rescue Services.
How about a 'Guess the Number' lottery for items of litter picked up along the way? A different way to garnish additional donations whilst being of immense usefulness.
Maybe even a 3 peaks - 3 wildcamps approach for instance? (That's not really going to affect most of us regular wildcampers by the way. We tend to steer clear of such peaks, due to their over popularity)
Lets take it further still. The winner (because such things always seem to turn into a competition) - the slowest time to "do" the 3 Peaks, with the most amount of enjoyment. Choose your own measurement.
Think the idea might catch on?
Certainly more of a Challenge from what I can see.
Labels: Lake District, media, Scotland, Wales
Can you help - West Highland Way
No excuse for nicking this content from the ever excellent Grough
"Police and mountain rescuers are searching for a man who is missing ...The 48-year-old is believed to be in the Blanefield area, near the southern end of the West Highland Way...The man is described as 5ft 11in (1.80m) tall, with brown hair. He is believed to be wearing a black jacket.
Central Scotland Police say they need to trace the man as a matter of urgency"
For anyone in the area, or on the WHW at present.
I've checked the local news service and didn't find any update so I guess that means a look-out is still required.
Update Tues 3/3 - The search continues: "Adrian Park was last seen on Saturday in Milngavie, the north-Glasgow suburb that is the start point for walkers tackling the 153km (95-mile) route. He was reported missing about 7pm after failing to return home in the Blanefield area"
Sunday, July 13
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge - Huh?
It's been a few days since I posted about the Ten Peaks Challenge. So I was a little surprised to see I'm apparently the first to start filling the pot when I popped by today to sort it out.
Surely there's more of out there prepared to spare a few coppers. Or has the over stimulated media reports of "Credit Crunch" (WTF?) scared everyone into hiding cash under the mattress?
Surely not.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Wednesday, July 9
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge - Update
I had a progress update earlier today from Donny, one of the masterminds behind the TenPeaks Charity Challenge)
The challenge's website has just been set up with a 'Just Giving page' for on-line donation to either (or both?) of the nominated charities.
This is an interesting alternative to many of the fund raising ideas that we see each year - climbing Scotland's ten highest peaks, from bottom to top, in ten days, all wildcamping as they go (that's a total ascent of 3,781 metres higher than Mt Everest)
The trip has now been moved back to September to give more time for fund raising before the team spring into action.
So now M&G have finished their 'little' wander perhaps you may want to help this one along to its £10,000 target...........and perhaps spread the word a little further? Its a big target, for a big challenge.
(And thanks for the plug on the Thank You page - that Derwent Duck of mine certainly gets around these days)Labels: media, Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Monday, July 7
The Outdoors Station - Cape Wrath Trail Podcasts
Following my recent nudge to Podcast Bob to get his Cape Wrath Podcast link sorted out his response has been to post Part One and also Part 2 as well.
Like Sporks, you can never have enough of Bob's Marvellous Molten Mutterings (lol)
(Right click and 'Save Target As' to download)
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 1 : Download MP3 File
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 2 : Download MP3 File
Friday, June 6
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge
I first bumped into Donald on the uk walking newsgroup when he mentioned his plans for a charity walking challenge.
Well 'bumped into' is not quite the right phrase. Having been involved in this sort of operation before I quietly tipped him off on the response he could expect on the thread. And boy did he get it, but managed to handle the various flack with suitable aplomb.
Donald's involved with the TenPeaks Charity Challenge which now has its own website, and its one with a real difference setting it apart from the normal charity ideas.
"A team of 3 ......... will spend ten days in August......climbing Scotland’s ten highest mountains from bottom to top with no traversing involved. They will do one mountain a day and will be unsupported in their attempt. All food and water will be brought with them and they will be camping for the whole 10 days"
£30k is the target, so BIG thinking all the way with Don's bunch. Details on the event, operation & how to donate on the site.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Friday, January 4
Grough Outdoor website news and more
I can't for the life of me remember how I tripped across Gough - "the inside view of the outdoor world", but I'm glad I did.
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links. Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Monday, December 31
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
"Police and mountain rescuers are searching for a man who is missing ...The 48-year-old is believed to be in the Blanefield area, near the southern end of the West Highland Way...The man is described as 5ft 11in (1.80m) tall, with brown hair. He is believed to be wearing a black jacket.
Central Scotland Police say they need to trace the man as a matter of urgency"
For anyone in the area, or on the WHW at present.
I've checked the local news service and didn't find any update so I guess that means a look-out is still required.
Update Tues 3/3 - The search continues: "Adrian Park was last seen on Saturday in Milngavie, the north-Glasgow suburb that is the start point for walkers tackling the 153km (95-mile) route. He was reported missing about 7pm after failing to return home in the Blanefield area"
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge - Huh?
It's been a few days since I posted about the Ten Peaks Challenge. So I was a little surprised to see I'm apparently the first to start filling the pot when I popped by today to sort it out.
Surely there's more of out there prepared to spare a few coppers. Or has the over stimulated media reports of "Credit Crunch" (WTF?) scared everyone into hiding cash under the mattress?
Surely not.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Wednesday, July 9
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge - Update
I had a progress update earlier today from Donny, one of the masterminds behind the TenPeaks Charity Challenge)
The challenge's website has just been set up with a 'Just Giving page' for on-line donation to either (or both?) of the nominated charities.
This is an interesting alternative to many of the fund raising ideas that we see each year - climbing Scotland's ten highest peaks, from bottom to top, in ten days, all wildcamping as they go (that's a total ascent of 3,781 metres higher than Mt Everest)
The trip has now been moved back to September to give more time for fund raising before the team spring into action.
So now M&G have finished their 'little' wander perhaps you may want to help this one along to its £10,000 target...........and perhaps spread the word a little further? Its a big target, for a big challenge.
(And thanks for the plug on the Thank You page - that Derwent Duck of mine certainly gets around these days)Labels: media, Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Monday, July 7
The Outdoors Station - Cape Wrath Trail Podcasts
Following my recent nudge to Podcast Bob to get his Cape Wrath Podcast link sorted out his response has been to post Part One and also Part 2 as well.
Like Sporks, you can never have enough of Bob's Marvellous Molten Mutterings (lol)
(Right click and 'Save Target As' to download)
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 1 : Download MP3 File
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 2 : Download MP3 File
Friday, June 6
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge
I first bumped into Donald on the uk walking newsgroup when he mentioned his plans for a charity walking challenge.
Well 'bumped into' is not quite the right phrase. Having been involved in this sort of operation before I quietly tipped him off on the response he could expect on the thread. And boy did he get it, but managed to handle the various flack with suitable aplomb.
Donald's involved with the TenPeaks Charity Challenge which now has its own website, and its one with a real difference setting it apart from the normal charity ideas.
"A team of 3 ......... will spend ten days in August......climbing Scotland’s ten highest mountains from bottom to top with no traversing involved. They will do one mountain a day and will be unsupported in their attempt. All food and water will be brought with them and they will be camping for the whole 10 days"
£30k is the target, so BIG thinking all the way with Don's bunch. Details on the event, operation & how to donate on the site.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Friday, January 4
Grough Outdoor website news and more
I can't for the life of me remember how I tripped across Gough - "the inside view of the outdoor world", but I'm glad I did.
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links. Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Monday, December 31
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Surely there's more of out there prepared to spare a few coppers. Or has the over stimulated media reports of "Credit Crunch" (WTF?) scared everyone into hiding cash under the mattress?
Surely not.
Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge - Update
I had a progress update earlier today from Donny, one of the masterminds behind the TenPeaks Charity Challenge)
The challenge's website has just been set up with a 'Just Giving page' for on-line donation to either (or both?) of the nominated charities.
This is an interesting alternative to many of the fund raising ideas that we see each year - climbing Scotland's ten highest peaks, from bottom to top, in ten days, all wildcamping as they go (that's a total ascent of 3,781 metres higher than Mt Everest)
The trip has now been moved back to September to give more time for fund raising before the team spring into action.
So now M&G have finished their 'little' wander perhaps you may want to help this one along to its £10,000 target...........and perhaps spread the word a little further? Its a big target, for a big challenge.
(And thanks for the plug on the Thank You page - that Derwent Duck of mine certainly gets around these days)Labels: media, Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Monday, July 7
The Outdoors Station - Cape Wrath Trail Podcasts
Following my recent nudge to Podcast Bob to get his Cape Wrath Podcast link sorted out his response has been to post Part One and also Part 2 as well.
Like Sporks, you can never have enough of Bob's Marvellous Molten Mutterings (lol)
(Right click and 'Save Target As' to download)
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 1 : Download MP3 File
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 2 : Download MP3 File
Friday, June 6
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge
I first bumped into Donald on the uk walking newsgroup when he mentioned his plans for a charity walking challenge.
Well 'bumped into' is not quite the right phrase. Having been involved in this sort of operation before I quietly tipped him off on the response he could expect on the thread. And boy did he get it, but managed to handle the various flack with suitable aplomb.
Donald's involved with the TenPeaks Charity Challenge which now has its own website, and its one with a real difference setting it apart from the normal charity ideas.
"A team of 3 ......... will spend ten days in August......climbing Scotland’s ten highest mountains from bottom to top with no traversing involved. They will do one mountain a day and will be unsupported in their attempt. All food and water will be brought with them and they will be camping for the whole 10 days"
£30k is the target, so BIG thinking all the way with Don's bunch. Details on the event, operation & how to donate on the site.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Friday, January 4
Grough Outdoor website news and more
I can't for the life of me remember how I tripped across Gough - "the inside view of the outdoor world", but I'm glad I did.
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links. Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Monday, December 31
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
The challenge's website has just been set up with a 'Just Giving page' for on-line donation to either (or both?) of the nominated charities.
This is an interesting alternative to many of the fund raising ideas that we see each year - climbing Scotland's ten highest peaks, from bottom to top, in ten days, all wildcamping as they go (that's a total ascent of 3,781 metres higher than Mt Everest)
The trip has now been moved back to September to give more time for fund raising before the team spring into action.
So now M&G have finished their 'little' wander perhaps you may want to help this one along to its £10,000 target...........and perhaps spread the word a little further? Its a big target, for a big challenge.
(And thanks for the plug on the Thank You page - that Derwent Duck of mine certainly gets around these days)
Labels: media, Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
The Outdoors Station - Cape Wrath Trail Podcasts
Following my recent nudge to Podcast Bob to get his Cape Wrath Podcast link sorted out his response has been to post Part One and also Part 2 as well.
Like Sporks, you can never have enough of Bob's Marvellous Molten Mutterings (lol)
(Right click and 'Save Target As' to download)
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 1 : Download MP3 File
The Cape Wrath Trail - Pt 2 : Download MP3 File
Friday, June 6
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge
I first bumped into Donald on the uk walking newsgroup when he mentioned his plans for a charity walking challenge.
Well 'bumped into' is not quite the right phrase. Having been involved in this sort of operation before I quietly tipped him off on the response he could expect on the thread. And boy did he get it, but managed to handle the various flack with suitable aplomb.
Donald's involved with the TenPeaks Charity Challenge which now has its own website, and its one with a real difference setting it apart from the normal charity ideas.
"A team of 3 ......... will spend ten days in August......climbing Scotland’s ten highest mountains from bottom to top with no traversing involved. They will do one mountain a day and will be unsupported in their attempt. All food and water will be brought with them and they will be camping for the whole 10 days"
£30k is the target, so BIG thinking all the way with Don's bunch. Details on the event, operation & how to donate on the site.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Friday, January 4
Grough Outdoor website news and more
I can't for the life of me remember how I tripped across Gough - "the inside view of the outdoor world", but I'm glad I did.
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links. Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Monday, December 31
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Like Sporks, you can never have enough of Bob's Marvellous Molten Mutterings (lol)
(Right click and 'Save Target As' to download)
Ten Peaks Charity Challenge
I first bumped into Donald on the uk walking newsgroup when he mentioned his plans for a charity walking challenge.
Well 'bumped into' is not quite the right phrase. Having been involved in this sort of operation before I quietly tipped him off on the response he could expect on the thread. And boy did he get it, but managed to handle the various flack with suitable aplomb.
Donald's involved with the TenPeaks Charity Challenge which now has its own website, and its one with a real difference setting it apart from the normal charity ideas.
"A team of 3 ......... will spend ten days in August......climbing Scotland’s ten highest mountains from bottom to top with no traversing involved. They will do one mountain a day and will be unsupported in their attempt. All food and water will be brought with them and they will be camping for the whole 10 days"
£30k is the target, so BIG thinking all the way with Don's bunch. Details on the event, operation & how to donate on the site.Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Friday, January 4
Grough Outdoor website news and more
I can't for the life of me remember how I tripped across Gough - "the inside view of the outdoor world", but I'm glad I did.
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links. Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Monday, December 31
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Well 'bumped into' is not quite the right phrase. Having been involved in this sort of operation before I quietly tipped him off on the response he could expect on the thread. And boy did he get it, but managed to handle the various flack with suitable aplomb.
Donald's involved with the TenPeaks Charity Challenge which now has its own website, and its one with a real difference setting it apart from the normal charity ideas.
"A team of 3 ......... will spend ten days in August......climbing Scotland’s ten highest mountains from bottom to top with no traversing involved. They will do one mountain a day and will be unsupported in their attempt. All food and water will be brought with them and they will be camping for the whole 10 days"
£30k is the target, so BIG thinking all the way with Don's bunch. Details on the event, operation & how to donate on the site.
Labels: Scotland, Ten Peaks Challenge
Grough Outdoor website news and more
I can't for the life of me remember how I tripped across Gough - "the inside view of the outdoor world", but I'm glad I did.
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links. Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Monday, December 31
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Its been around for some time, with the news archive going back to May 2007, although some of the route guides indicate it dates back to 2006.
But whatever the site's history its slap bang up to date with outdoor related news. For instance, a piece I heard on BBC Radio 4 Today program, trying to stir up a little controversy (very unconvincingly as it happened) over the YHA's 119 hostel application for 24 hour alcohol licence had already been carried by Gough yesterday, whilst the piece seemed to have been buried on the BBC News website.
I'm not too sure who is behind the site's content, but its very well put together and the content has been excellent whilst I've been keeping an eye on it.
Now if only the forum had some activity I think Outdoors Magic would have some very strong competition indeed.
Another one worthy of my sidebar links.
Labels: Lake District, Miscellaneous, Scotland, walks
Ultimate Gear Test? 2007 Naked Munros Challenge
I found this whilst googling for something entirely different. But hats off to the guy concerned in his Munro attempt.
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
Monday, October 1
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Ancient Brit has the lightweight ethos about as minimalist as it will ever go. Reading his site his outdoor experience includes two Pacific Crest Trails , a Round Britain walk, and the Munros. So not just a whim or publicity seeking.
A difficult challenge to find a "first" on the UK walking scene these days. But I don't think there will be too many contendors for the Winter attempt somehow.
New Outdoor websites, books and news
(This is going to be a bit of a catch-up post as I seem to have fallen behind with a recent rash of news and site visits)
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Friday, September 28
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
One of our American colleagues - Daryl May - contacted me earlier in the year about his forthcoming LEJOG jaunt. Well the trip's now done and you can read the trip report and drool over the pictures here.
Meanwhile it looks like the SYHA is undergoing a hostel review at present, with an announcement here that 7 out of the network’s 53 hostels are to be sold. The organisation seems to be facing up to the same commercial pressures that its English counterpart has already undergone.
Paddy Dillon's name does seem to keep cropping up. And well it should with Paddy's excellent outdoor guides. Cicerone have a (new?) book "The National Trails" about to be published. Its not meant as an out-on-the walk guide, but more as a stay-at-home research. Whens the Psion version coming out Paddy? (and where's the reviewer copy hint hint)
;-)
Meanwhile there's a new outdoor blogger on the horizon - Gyrovagus "Peregrinations and ramblings about walking, books, music and other stuff" And before you ask (he says liberally quoting from G's site) "gyrovagus: from Late Latin gyro- circle + vagus wandering"
One to instantly add into your Favourites, coz you'll never be able to type it correctly each time I bet!
And finally - a free service from ninjaBlog Setup - "It’s our goal to provide professional WordPress blogs without you having to even think about all the technical details" No catch that I can find, except for the requirement to use hosting from one of their sponsor links. But a friendly and helpful assistance from what I've read so far.
Phew - think that's covered it for the present. Back to the HipPack judging!
Labels: blog media, books, Scotland, UK Outdoors Blogger, YHA
Spring - a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
Tuesday, July 31
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Is it spring already, with those early indicatiors so nobly expressed by Lord Alf Tennyson?
There's BG with his subtle post "What a lovely pair" and HenesseyBlog with "A nip in the air…"
So just in case we've collectively decided to write off the rest of 2007 to rush towards the Spring 2008 here's my contribution.
Ladies and gentlemen I bring you Sgurr na Cìche, better known as the Pap of Glen Coe aka GlenCoe's nipple to the baser elements out there.
Oooh, no missus, titter ye not.
Labels: blog media, Miscellaneous, Scotland
SCOTLAND TRIP: Final Thoughts
1. I only covered 20 or so miles of the Western Highlands, but the impression I was left with was of space, height and emptiness. The hills were high. But the ascents themselves were all the more challenging as most routes seemed to started from near sea level.
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
Monday, July 30
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
A fellow blogger on his first Lakeland visit commented on how close everything seemed to be, which led to a rich variety of views and valleys. Having experienced the highlands I can definitely see the contrast. The distances involved and routes are all on a much bigger scale and it would be easy to underestimate this when trip planning safe at home. But it leads to some amazing ridge walks. On a view north from Pap I could see a 8-10 mile ridge walk just crying out for a visit and wildcamping. Water on the hills is also extremely plentiful.
2. One factor that really struck me, again in comparison with Lakeland route finding, was the scarcity of information on the OS map.
Paths were plentiful enough on the hillside, but not that well marked, if at all, on the map.
I'd not taken the opportunity to look at any route guidebooks, and I suspect a few quid spent on a few of the better references works would be a great help.
3. The quality of light and clear air resulted in some incredible views, when weather permitted. A contrast resulting probably from the general lack of cars/pollution, a fact rarely realised south of the border. And suddenly striking home.
4. The Red Squirrel campsite (northwards along the road from Glen Coe SYHA) not only has flat pitches, with plenty of tree shade, but also is one of the few places I've found that still allows an open fire (A pity that one ejit on Sunday night thought it a good idea to fuel his fire by breaking branches off the roadside trees!)
I'm sure I spotted a Caravan and Camping Club sign, but it doesn't seem to be listed on their website.
5. The SYHA system, from my limited usage reminded me more of the English YHAs of 15+ years ago. The hostels are basic but comfortable. For the walker they provide much of what we expect of any budget self catering accommodation.
But there's an air of decay about the places with noticeable low staffing levels.
However an adult SYHA membership for two years at £14 is still less than just one years membership of it's English counterpart at £15.95. Which of course gives you access to the English hostels as part of the International YHA scheme.
Personally I'll look at taking a membership out when considering a further trip to Scotland purely for the handbook and planning it helps with.
Comparative costs:
SCOTLAND: Total = £175 (Air £120; Train/Coach:£52); Trip time 12+ hours
LAKE DISTRICT: Total = £110 (Train/bus); Trip time 7+ hours
And finally......
The train journey Glasgow to Fort William was undoubtedly the highlight of the trip. A splendid introduction to the wilds of Scotland, and the potential jump off points as a start for future trips. Heartily recommended.
Will I return? Most definitely.
And who knows. With a little more exposure to the heather 'n midges and I can even hear the call of the TGO Challenge in the not too distant future. Once I've had a better acquaintance of the land as a wildcamper. Hmmmm. A tasty world.
Labels: Scotland
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 5 Mon 16/7
And so farewell to the Scottish Hills. For the present.
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)
The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
Tuesday, July 24
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
As an alternative to the train trip up, the journey back to Glasgow was to be via coach from Glen Coe junction.
A 'Good Plan' when researching the transport. But on the day it resulted in several hours kicking my heels around Glen Coe, mostly in a steady down pour. But despite the damp the scenery remained stunning. An invitation to return with thoughts starting of further trips.
And possibly something a litle bigger planned as a suitable personal celebration in 2009.
(Glen Coe Massacre monument)The trip up the A82 through the Glen Coe valley is impressive even amongst thick cloud and rain and undoubtedly even more amazing in clear weather. But the coach trip itself was jerky and uneven, with no time to absorb the changing landscape. The natural bonhomie that existed between the train passengers was totally missing amongst the coach's passengers.
True the trip took half the time. But it's not the speed of the journey that counts.
And finally to Glasgow airport and the usual hanging around. Looking at the construction work taking place at the scene of the recent terrorism. And wondering how on earth those concerned expected to drive a car into a building when it required a ninety degree turn off the roadway to get to it.
Security remained tight. But it did occur, to a couple of us as we gathered in the main hall, surrounded by large backpacks, amongst a lengthening queue leading up to the check-in, that there were easier ways to achieve serious carnage, given an individual with extreme convictions and a limited view of their own mortality (and I see someone else has had the same thought since) But no one from security gave us a glance as we ended our weary way through the process to the flight back south.
And that's the trip, with a quick round-up left on costs and tips/thoughts left to come.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 4 Sun 15/7 (Pap of Glen Coe)
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)
Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
Monday, July 23
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Pap of Glen Coe (Sgorr na ciche)
Grid ref: 125 594
Top 742m;
Distance: 3.25 mile
Time: 4 hours
Now who has ever been served a crusty white bread roll as part of a continental breakfast? And a very basic breakfast at that. Well not me. Tomorrow’s decision about hostel or self catering was already made. And not even out of the door yet.
But what a day to greet. Sunny, dry and warming up already as I joined the other social pariahs sucking deep on the first roll-up of the day. Of such times are friendships made and memories made. Possibly.
(Glen Coe SYHA)Meanwhile a sore right quad muscle still nagging after the previous day’s exercise so another decision easily made. That of not going for the planned trip along the Aonach Eagach ridge. For that little challenge I wanted to be certain that when my foot was placed firmly down, or up for that matter, it stayed supporting my body in its upright position. One I prefer to adopt when walking. And even more so when there’s a scramble involved.
The Pap had looked interesting on the approach to Glen Coe. Guardian of the range, and more importantly standing proud at the end of the long ridge with panoramic views around most points of the compass. And then there is the name – Pap. If ever a hill was more aptly named by its shape or function then this would be it (Unless there’s a hill out there called "a steep and sweaty climb", or the Gaelic equivalent)
For the first half hour or so I was accompanied by a couple of the group that I'd travelled north with, but who also wished to find their own particular enjoyment in the hills today.
Then striking out by myself I had a cunning plan. Take a diagonal across the hillside, aiming off for the edge of a pine woodland enclosure, and then a gentle ridge ascent to the foot of the peak before making the unavoidable scramble up the last 100 m or so.
But as with all best laid plans, they are subject to change, and in this particular case I discovered firstly a small dam, a haven of peace on the hillside with cool clear water. And behind a small barely hidden track through the heather. Part watercourse possibly, but definitely a path upward. Beckoning to me it seemed. Me, the master explorer of so many similar deer tracks on my New Forest walks. Aha an easy route away from the broken paths I’d been using so far on this trip.
Well that was what I thought at the time. Instead of my diagonal and gentle ridge route, an hour later found me sweating, boots bog black having more or less walked straight up to the foot of the final scramble.
An interesting introduction to walking amongst heather and peat on the Scottish hills. A place where tracks disappear into hidden gullies, and black well defined peat tracks, become a boulder field, cunningly hidden amongst moss and heather. But on the positive side definitely softer on the feet than the last couple of days.
Meanwhile a chance to catch up with the BBC Radio 4 Archers Omnibus edition. A slice of English tradition whilst experiencing a Scottish alternative. Peat bog bashing.
Luckily the rain of the previous days had met good drainage on the steepish slope, leaving the ground relatively firm. That is bogland not too interested in exploring its ability to suck off my boot as I passed by. Well not yet at least.
(Pap summit)
The final ascent of the Pap was unavoidable. There seemed no way to avoid a careful scramble up, with no plainly discernible track to follow. I found that on the descent. Naturally.
And the view was worth the final haul up. East down the loch back to Kinlochleven, north to Fort William, and south and west to the peaks along the valley of Glen Coe.
(to Fort William)
And in the distance, wherever I raised my eyes to the near, middle or far distance. Hills. All free of cloud. The observatory on Ben Nevis, a couple of ranges back, clearly visible and now just one peak out of maybe forty or perhaps fifty summits that I could see from the superb vantage point.
(BenNevis sunning itself)
I sat on that summit for a couple of hours. Enjoying the sun, not feeling the light wind. Just drinking in the panorama. Occasionally changing my viewing position to look at a different range. More hills and ridges.
On other peaks I may have stayed an hour at most, finally chasing myself off as other walkers arrived. Leaving them to their own enjoyment. Some in peace. Some in less gentle ways. But here on a hot and sunny Sunday afternoon I had three fellow summiteers in two hours. On a Lakeland peak I would have expected ten plus guests in half the time. Here some quiet folk moved in, and moved on. One kindly pointing out the far distant hill range, his usual walking ground, near the east coast of Scotland. That gave some idea of the distances that could be seen in the clear air of the Scottish West Highlands.
But Scotland is indeed a place so lonely for a people at times.
Photos? Of course I tried to take some, littered through this article. But nothing mechanical could ever report back the views I was drinking in, or the experience of contentment that I was enjoying at that moment.
Finally a descent. Heading for the OS map marked track, meeting up with my early morning walking partners at the foot of the scramble down from Pap. They enjoying more limiting views, but happy in their own sunlit world. My gentle persuasion for them to travel the extra distance to the top declined, I headed down, the views to Fort William and the loch laid out before me, but largely avoided as once more I took to watching my feet on rock strewn path.
Oh and that damned big black boot sucking peat bog near the bottom. Well I had been lucky to date on the trip, so I guess one leg in up to the knee wasn’t a bad record.
Finally following the tarmac back to the hostel, a shower, and onto the Clachaig Inn to await the return of the conquering heroes. Down this final cruel descent from that ridge.
.........and looking up from the bottom.
And from the physical state of the returnees one route that I did well not to take, as in my particular and mostly solitary way I soaked up the atmosphere of the hills.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 3 Sat 14/7 (West Highland Way)
Distance: 12.5 mile;
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Ascent 560m with 331 m max;
Time 6.25 hr; Avg. speed: 2.9 mph
(And no apologies for mixing metric and imperial!)
From one extreme to the other. Yesterday a peak on a circular route, retracing tracks. Today a lowland linear trek all on new ground.
Just south of the Glen Nevis YHA there's a spur track behind the back of the pub (GR 125 720) leading onto the WHW thereby avoiding a trip into Fort William, and for us a somewhat pointless return trek back out again. A pleasant shale track for the first few miles leading through woodland. A delight after yesterday's ankle crunching paths and for once I had time to look around rather than watch where each foot was placed.
Big mistake. The rain rolled in. And out. And in, and......Well you get the picture I'm sure.
And as if sensing fresh meat on the menu, the midges decided now was time to put in their appearance. My companions for the day, new to this approach of self propelled backpacking between hostels, already daubing themselves with repellent, but I just covered up with clothing in benign resignation of it being one of those sort of days. Yesterday's legacy of sore thigh muscles quickly wearing off as I warmed up.
We had the narrow forest track through dense pine forest mostly to ourselves for the first couple of hours, travelling as we were against the normal WHW direction of travel (Glasgow to Fort William) As the morning wore on the first trekkers started to appear. Some out for the day. Others completing their own personal challenge, their journey's end within sight. By the time we reached Blar a Chaorainn (GR 101 666) walkers were converging from all directions.
A brief stop for food was curtailed by the arrival of more insistent rainfall, which meant any detour to see the monument appointing the spot where the chase of those escaping the infamous Glen Coe massacre finally ceased, was left for another time. A desolate area.
Finally into the valley following the Allt Na Lairige More and Allt Nathrach rivers which with the persistent rain tumbled their way down either side of the watershed.
If you like valley walking this is the route for you. For me it seemed to go on for ever. The track by now never remaining flat enough for any period of time to persuade me it was safe to spend my time looking up, as opposed to watching my step.
As Wainwright once said. Walking safely is easy. Just put one foot in front of the other and watch where you put them. Quite. But frustrating with the sides of the valley looming all around, their tops hidden in low cloud. Finally a cheeky descent through woodland spat us out onto the edge of Kinlochleven.
A bustling town. According to Wikipedia ("a major mountain activity centre, known as the Ice Factor ..........the village is now visited by over 100,000 visitors per year and has become one of the top 5 visitor attractions in the Highlands of Scotland")
Well perhaps it is normally. But on this wet Saturday afternoon the place seemed deserted, with maybe one or two cars on the road as we walked into the centre. Checking the first bus stop timetable we came across, whilst debating a coffee stop, or walking through to the other side of the town, the Fort William bus appeared, and the chance of escape from this (ahem) bustling metropolis was quickly agreed.
After the basic amenities of Glen Nevis hostel, a hot shower and the fleshpots of Glen Coe were eagerly anticipated for a Saturday night on the town. And if you've ever visited Glen Coe you'll know what a contrast that was to be. The local Spar shop, a necessary visit due to SYHA lack of lunchtime fare, was the main centre of attraction on a wet Saturday afternoon.
On this particular day the impact of the Highland Clearances seemed to be plain to see all around, although the modern day migration of youth to the bright lights of bigger centres of population has probably more to do with the general scarcity of population. The general emptiness of the landscape reflected within the mulling quiet of Glen Coe. But still, what an exceptional landscape all around, even with the claggy weather.
Suffice to say with a long damp walk out of Glen Coe to the hostel, a hot shower was eagerly anticipated before a night's entertainment. Another mistake. The name of the hostel only reflected the nearest set of dwellings. The SYHA stood by itself about a mile and a half along a rising tarmac road, a trip that after the day's distance and weather seemed to go on longer than it deserved.
The Glen Coe SYHA once again surprised me with its low level of amenities compared to its English counterparts.
Contrary to the SYHA web site breakfast would turn out to be very basic, packed lunches non-existent, and staffing very much run on a shoestring from the look of it all. And once again the hostel was nearly full. The difference between the two organisations, at least on my limited use of the Scottish hostels so far, rather obvious. I've not been a huge fan of the nouveau B&B approach adopted by the English chain, but both the SYHAs I used would rate barely above the traditional hostel grading despite being lowland hostels in undoubtedly busy locations.
Gratifyingly the showers were indeed hot. But the room is dark and intermittent traffic pass by on the road a few feet from the dormitory window. Besides that the area is quiet. Too quiet.
With a long walk back to Glen Coe for food resupply or onto the excellent Clachaig Inn for more meaningful sustenance......well no contest. Despite the day's distance already covered.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 2 Fri 13/7 (Ben Nevis)
Glen Nevis SYHA/Ben Nevis via tourist track
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)
We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
Thursday, July 19
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Total ascent: 1268m; Top 1340m; Time: 5.5 hours; Avg. Speed: 2 mph
My first Munro. And Friday the 13th as well - unlucky for some, but not me I hope.
Well I might as well start at the top of the Munro list and Nevis is the undoubtedly the daddy of all UK hills. And with it a completion of the 3 Peaks after only, oh say 30 years or so (where did that time go?)
As the stats show it was one long trek up, a quick sandwich/warm clothes stop; A meander around the top whilst I was there; And one long slog back.
Less a walk enjoying the hills, and more a challenge of stamina both with the continual climb, and to avoid knocking over the edge the never-ending stream of walkers trudging their ways past.
And what a crowd.
After a while I started to relieve the trudging boredom by playing a game to try to assess an individual's experience and ability based on their clothing. Designer labels de rigeur of course. Adidas and Nike the front runners. Occasionally I even saw a map. Shock horror!
I shouldn't have been too surprised really. Crossing the bridge outside the YHA two European students stopped me to confirm that they were on the right track for the Ben, and then wandered off. Trainers and jeans; some sort of street wear top; one small knapsack shared between two; No sign of map/compass or fallback gear.
Of such things are "famous" hills best known at times.
And this sign at the foot seemed to go largely unread, but the message is clear as to the difficulties that could encountered. For some people, possibly terminal.
And for the record, in case this comes across as some sort of elitism, today I was using my £9.99 Tesco 45 litre daysack (45l? ha ha - yeh right) But a cheap offering that conveniently folds up to fit inside my backpack between hostels, and still seems to take up all the space normally occupied by my Akto tent. But full of dry clothes, water, food and basic emergency and first aid gear.
But on the whole many of the walkers seemed safe, bugging out by Lochan Meall an-t-Suidhe on seeing the rough zig zag path stretching ahead, after the steepish haul up from the valley floor.
Passing through the snowfields near the summit, cloud base low but intermittent, temperature dropped nearer freezing, I couldn't help but wonder how some of the more adventurous ones were getting on.
(Ben Nevis summit)We all have to learn somewhere. But Ben Nevis is not necessarily a good place to start. It's not only a test of navigation on leaving the summit, despite well worn paths, but any minor injury turns the 3 hour descent into a major undertaking not to be considered in rough weather.
And my did some show worrying concern on the descent, carefully picking their way from stone to stone along the rocky path for a 5 or 6 hour descent if they were lucky.
I'm happy to have finally ticked this one off the list, but like many of these "status peaks" not one that I would rush back to. Such a joyless slog, missing much of that essential feeling of peace and close interaction with the landscape around.
I could see so many quieter alternatives all around me in the distance as those feet of mine carried on trudging down hill. Endlessly plodding onwards to a hot shower.
And to save some of you a trip, here's the view from below the summit.
Highlite of the day? Sad to say it had to be the (very) white buttocks unintentionally displayed by a young lady who just HAD to stop for a wee. Her male partner keeping a gentlemany eye out for walkers in the distance. But it's amazing how far away a flash of white can be seen if you're in the centre of a valley, with 2 miles of open land behind you. Not a sheewee user apparently. And I even managed to keep a straight face when I walked the couple a few minutes later.
SCOTLAND TRIP: DAY 1 Thu 12/7
An uneventful journey northwards. The low spot being the 05:45 start to hop the train to Southampton Airport, skipping onto Fort William via a train from Glasgow Queen Station.
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centre
And the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Hogworts anybody? Platform 3/4 if you peer closely enough
The one bonus during the long trip - a steady intake of coffee and food to stoke up the carb intake in preparation for the busy weekend ahead.
At least the weigh-in at Southampton confirmed my pack weight of 11.25kg. Those old fishing scales down the shed still doing their job.
The train trip north to Fort William was by far worth the hilight of the whole journey with astounding views as the Glasgow conurbation was left behind. Although the city itself has its attractions, despite the negative image often associated with it.
Glasgow city centreAnd the number of locations along the line where the remote station allows quick access to the open hills! Phew - full of potential ideas.
Fort William itself was a disappointment reminding me of the smaller Welsh towns so reliant on the tourist trade to maintain a viable community. Newer developments merely highlighting the rundown character of the older establishments.
After hours of crossing high and remote land, following alongside seemingly for ever never ending lochs, the journey into FW was heralded by a large Argos depot, suitably HUGELY signed.
And that probably said it all as far as Fort William was concerned.
The Glen Nevis SYHA seems quite a basic hostel for such a popular spot, especially with the lack of secure luggage storage. I hope honesty is a common trait in these parts, especially in a dormitory of 18 people. But this is a first for me, the necessity to carry a passport as I wander the hills, but a pre-requisite for airport security if I want to use the plane on the way back.
The weather is tantalisingly cloudy on high, but clearing to give teasing glimpses of far off peaks to be chased tomorrow. But the weekend forecast does not bode well.
SCOTLAND TRIP: The Preamble
As with previous trip report, it was written in spare moments as I wandered around.
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Tuesday, July 17
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
I'll try to leave it largely unedited unless it's necessary for clarification.
I'll split each day up into a new post, and finally follow it up with my usually debrief on lessons learnt/tips etc.
Never rub another man's rhubarb
Here's Johnny
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Wednesday, July 11
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Yes, back from the north, with a notebook of scribblings, some lacklustre photos, and mildly damp gear now drying out.
But no snowballs, I left those behind on Ben Nevis.
(Bet you can hardly wait for the trip report with that sort of teaser)
But first I need to catch up with goings on whilst I've been out, and sort out the order for my new Alpkit bivvi bag at £25. Got to be worth a trial at that price.
No link though, to be fair to those who've already been waiting for it's arrival, but may not have had the chance to get their order sorted as yet. I'm sure you can find it if you really want to though.
Suffice to say the trip was interesting in the variety of travel used, the exposure to the Western Highlands walking, and the approach of the SYHA compared to it's English counterpart.
Once I've sorted it into some sort of continuity they'll be more to follow during the next couple of days.
Indoor Walking Trails
Raining outside?
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Tuesday, July 10
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Just the time to in in the promotion of University of Alberta's "Indoor Walking Trails" initiative
Not quite as mad as it sounds.
Me?
I'm off to bonny Scotland at some ungodly hour of tomorrow morning (Fort William/Ben Nevis; West Highland Way to Kinlochleven; Aonach Eagoch ridge)
So play nicely whilst I'm away.
Labels: Scotland
Getting ready for yet another trip
Meanwhile its back to the packing for me.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
Ive a trip to Scotland's West Highlands later this week via train/plane/train/coach /bus etc. Public transport all the way, although the plane doesn't really count I know.
Of course they'll be a post trip report, but the interest on this one is the viability of taking shortish walking breaks in Scotland if you live on the south coast, and not near the London sprawl.
At present it's starting to feel rather an over organised event, rather than my usual 'step off the train and go' affair. And the original budget fly costs are rapidly expanding as the little extras start to mount up.
But more to come presently.
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
