Tuesday, May 12
TUE 5/5/2026 Day 7 PASS 5 paris to home
Rail Miles: 304; Walk Miles: 6.22;
After the previous evenings pre sleep shenanigans, and somewhat predictably, I woke very early at sparrows cough and looking for my morning caffeine bump start. Rather than return the favour of noisily packing I slipped out of the room and downstairs to talk with the receptionist, barely awake at this point in her overnight shift.
Nope - no coffee to be had on the premises, but maybe a boulangerie locally? But unsure as to where that might be.
Happily the next door shop provided salvation.
6:30am and the recently opened boulangerie was already busy. Fresh coffee and newly baked pastry. I sat outside watching Paris life starting to move up through its gear changes for another manic day.
Refreshed I returned to the dorm. My plan had been to take a meandering route to the station and start to head for the UK. But, as I noted earlier, this a.m. sightseeing approach hadn't really worked for me, so by 7am, rather than just hang around, I decided to pack and head off.
There may have been a bit of clanging made when emptying my locker and packing to go.
Purely accidental I can assure you.
Good morning you sleepyheads (Karma can be a bitch folks)
Effectively a straight line route, with little need to check for course changes, gave me an opportunity to more fully appreciate the layout of Paris on pavements relatively empty of pedestrians and bike traffic steadily increasing.
It felt like Paris is not a city per se, but a group of districts pressed together. The Arrondissesments shown on the map often had distinct centres for bars, restaurants & shopping. Rather than try to "see" Paris any future trip should instead be looking at exploring some of the Arrondissesments.
For me Paris is more for passing through, possibly catching a meal on the way, rather than spending any length of time here.
The city traffic is manic, and travelling around, even on foot, can be a lengthy process requiring care.
I didn't use metro services in any of my stop overs, partly to avoid theft risk, partly I'm not a fan of sardine packed underground travelling, but mostly so that I could see the place I was moving through. But when compared to Amsterdam & Strasbourg, with their highly effective tram networks, you can really feel the benefits from a huge reduction in street traffic. And an easy way to view a city with little effort.
Eglise Saint-Ambroise?
After an hour I was nearing the station so I took the opportunity of restful break at a fortuitous bar I came across L'Atmosphere. A small oasis of calm. Sat by a canal, listening to parakeets (again) with a small park nearby I watched the early morning school run progressing. Idyllic and highly recommended as a rest stop for those with time to kill between train connections at the nearby Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est. With a quieter metro connection just across the canal.
Onto Gare du Nord to check departure information. My attempt to check in early failed. French Eurostar permits entry 2 hours before departure time.
4 hours to kill then.
I wandered the station concourse, exploring the various nooks and crannies, before heading back to the streets and wandering the area north of the station.
Inevitably I ended up outside yet another bar for coffee, to avoid the increasing pedestrian traffic. Plenty of small places to choose from rather than the large and brash tourist eateries opposite the station entrance.
And hats off to this guy. As a sighted person I felt my 5 primary senses were barely enough to cope with the Paris mania. (The other pedestrian was just passing and was providing no assistance)
A few visits to the local Carrefor, to stock up with food/water at a reasonable price, and I was mostly just kicking my heels until departure.
Finally I returned to the Eurostar barrier. Another EES check (specs off this time!) which was really well operated. A room of 20+ terminals, staff on hand to assist the process, and a watchful technician, who I had spotted earlier starting up the terminals, watching for any equipment failure.
A positive implementation of the EES system, and something the airports, I've used, could learn from.
Pinged at the X-Ray (Leatherman again) the security guard was intrigued by the tool and smilingly waved me on (Take note Notre Dame - sensible precautions)
Both border checks cleared the departure lounge was very well equipped with eateries and, if you bothered to walk a little further, plenty of seating. As each Eurostar service can handle 750 - 900 passengers its a welcoming approach. I had time to sit and watching the lengthening queue of 200+ passengers awaiting boarding for the train before mine. No idea why they queued. The moment the gate opened the queue quickly cleared the gate but only for them to then queue to get on the train, and then queue for luggage storage,
When my train was announced, an hour later, I sat with amusement watching the scene repeat itself.Once it cleared I simply wandered through the empty gate, stepped on the train and moved easily to my reserved seat putting my bag by my legs.
I quickly plugged my electronics into the seat socket for a 20 minute recharge, before the laptop user next to me would inevitably hog it for the next couple of hours, only disconnecting minutes before alighting. Another trip lesson learnt earlier.
Clearing St Pancras customs was like any airport arrival, and with Google Maps engaged, head down looking for the exit, I was one of the first few through and seconds later out onto the mean streets of London. Another small backpack benefit - no need to stop?
But no longer quite so mean.On my way out London had felt like bedlam. After Paris London now felt almost relaxed and easy going. Even the entrance to Waterloo station, with people rushing in all directions, was a breeze.
I'd not been quick enough to catch the early return train to home, despite setting a blistering pace. As I've observed earlier - street walking is not countryside walking. There is so much stop/start/change direction any decent pace is impossible.A quick play with the Interrail app and I set up the final leg of my journey with a 1/2 hour wait and then to journey's end.
An enjoyable and intriguing week. No dramas. An open and flexible approach to travelling (sic Frankfurt screw up)
Its addictive.
Labels: interrail
Monday, May 11
MON 4/5/2026 Day 6 PASS 4 Strasbourg to PARIS
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delight
The station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this place
The tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Onwards, stopping for a crepe and coffee en-route to Notre Dame.Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
..
Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 304; Walk Miles: 6.22;
After the previous evenings pre sleep shenanigans, and somewhat predictably, I woke very early at sparrows cough and looking for my morning caffeine bump start. Rather than return the favour of noisily packing I slipped out of the room and downstairs to talk with the receptionist, barely awake at this point in her overnight shift.
Nope - no coffee to be had on the premises, but maybe a boulangerie locally? But unsure as to where that might be.
Happily the next door shop provided salvation.
6:30am and the recently opened boulangerie was already busy. Fresh coffee and newly baked pastry. I sat outside watching Paris life starting to move up through its gear changes for another manic day.
Refreshed I returned to the dorm. My plan had been to take a meandering route to the station and start to head for the UK. But, as I noted earlier, this a.m. sightseeing approach hadn't really worked for me, so by 7am, rather than just hang around, I decided to pack and head off.
There may have been a bit of clanging made when emptying my locker and packing to go.
Purely accidental I can assure you.
Good morning you sleepyheads (Karma can be a bitch folks)
Effectively a straight line route, with little need to check for course changes, gave me an opportunity to more fully appreciate the layout of Paris on pavements relatively empty of pedestrians and bike traffic steadily increasing.
It felt like Paris is not a city per se, but a group of districts pressed together. The Arrondissesments shown on the map often had distinct centres for bars, restaurants & shopping. Rather than try to "see" Paris any future trip should instead be looking at exploring some of the Arrondissesments.
For me Paris is more for passing through, possibly catching a meal on the way, rather than spending any length of time here.
The city traffic is manic, and travelling around, even on foot, can be a lengthy process requiring care.
I didn't use metro services in any of my stop overs, partly to avoid theft risk, partly I'm not a fan of sardine packed underground travelling, but mostly so that I could see the place I was moving through. But when compared to Amsterdam & Strasbourg, with their highly effective tram networks, you can really feel the benefits from a huge reduction in street traffic. And an easy way to view a city with little effort.
Eglise Saint-Ambroise?
After an hour I was nearing the station so I took the opportunity of restful break at a fortuitous bar I came across L'Atmosphere. A small oasis of calm. Sat by a canal, listening to parakeets (again) with a small park nearby I watched the early morning school run progressing. Idyllic and highly recommended as a rest stop for those with time to kill between train connections at the nearby Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est. With a quieter metro connection just across the canal.
Onto Gare du Nord to check departure information. My attempt to check in early failed. French Eurostar permits entry 2 hours before departure time.
4 hours to kill then.
I wandered the station concourse, exploring the various nooks and crannies, before heading back to the streets and wandering the area north of the station.
Inevitably I ended up outside yet another bar for coffee, to avoid the increasing pedestrian traffic. Plenty of small places to choose from rather than the large and brash tourist eateries opposite the station entrance.
And hats off to this guy. As a sighted person I felt my 5 primary senses were barely enough to cope with the Paris mania. (The other pedestrian was just passing and was providing no assistance)
A few visits to the local Carrefor, to stock up with food/water at a reasonable price, and I was mostly just kicking my heels until departure.
Finally I returned to the Eurostar barrier. Another EES check (specs off this time!) which was really well operated. A room of 20+ terminals, staff on hand to assist the process, and a watchful technician, who I had spotted earlier starting up the terminals, watching for any equipment failure.
A positive implementation of the EES system, and something the airports, I've used, could learn from.
Pinged at the X-Ray (Leatherman again) the security guard was intrigued by the tool and smilingly waved me on (Take note Notre Dame - sensible precautions)
Both border checks cleared the departure lounge was very well equipped with eateries and, if you bothered to walk a little further, plenty of seating. As each Eurostar service can handle 750 - 900 passengers its a welcoming approach. I had time to sit and watching the lengthening queue of 200+ passengers awaiting boarding for the train before mine.Labels: interrail
MON 4/5/2026 Day 6 PASS 4 Strasbourg to PARIS
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delight
The station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this place
The tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Onwards, stopping for a crepe and coffee en-route to Notre Dame.Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delightThe station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this placeThe tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Not Frankfurt city centre!
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
No idea what this one is called - lolLabels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet Amsterdam Central station
Labels: interrail
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Pew Tor morning
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
Sharpitor
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
Leather Tor from Peek Hill
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
.. Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.
Pew Tor
I wouldn't really consider any of these tors for a revisit, and certainly not for an overnighter.
From memory Pew Tor seemed quite popular with occasional visitors, with its proximity to the Merrivale car parks.But not anything that sticks in my memory as I write this now.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.
Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Welcome to Vixen Tor
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
..
Feather Tor
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
Heckwood Tor
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
Pew TorLabels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
