Tuesday, May 12
Death of the Blogosphere (again), or change of emphasis?
Until this point my blog has always been used as record of walks, wildcamping trip reports & outdoor reflections.
But nowadays the blog as a communication tool has been largely forgotten, replaced by social media at its worse (please DON'T post a video of it!), or Substack at its best (Salutations Chris Townsend & Ron Turnball - keeping the written word alive and interesting).
Any interaction between myself and the reader has effectively disappeared.
Which is a loss as I've learnt much from commentors over the years, and formed some longstanding bonds with people I probably will never meet in person.
Social media has offered some of this, but it can be a minefield of petulance at times, occasionally inadvertent, but often malicious.
Indeed I've used it with varying levels of interest, ever since this blog first appeared back in July 2006. But its use as a meaningful communication media has debased into what it has now become.
(And don't get me onto Twitter/X.
I didn't see the point when I was first shown it back in 2007 ish, and its become an even more abused vehicle detrimental to everyday good communication.
Whatever bright spark in a company's Customer Services thought that posting a 'immediate service update' on X could, or should, ever replace proper communication.
Bah! A stinkingly bad practice)
[But back to the point Johnny boy.....]
Over the last few years I've kept the website fed with cash to keep it alive, even when disinterested, using it as an electronic diary of field trips, nowadays for my own purposes.
And often its useful as a quick reference tool to lookup past location/trip ideas that I'd noted in the past.
Especially the photos.
Like most of us these days its ... see something - snap it with the phone - (possibly) send it to a friend ....... and then it flies off into the cloud.
A virtual photo album.
Never to be picked up and lovingly leafed through with a reminiscence nodding at past memories.
My wildcamping trip reports will still continue, as will the occasional worthy-of-note walk.
But despite the "Walk about in the UK" nomenclature I'm now going to expand the remit to Interrail and walking outside the UK.
OK the walking is more of a point to point transit trip, but as my personal record of activity, it meets my needs.
And I'm paying for it all, so what I say goes bud!
🤣
Interrail - washup & reflections
TOTAL: Rail Miles: 1,354 ; Walk Miles: 36.42;
Much of this was originally posted on the excellent Facebook page Interrailing for the older crowd one of the few groups I regularly look forward to following these days due to the positive and informative discourse that takes place there, and the friendly contributors. A real rarity on FB.
As is my usual practice this is a summary of things that worked, and things to change next time around.
I've used the original post as a template and added the additional things I've remembered whilst compiling my daily trip reports, and added some pixs/links that the FB format doesn't readily support.
There is also a Google maps primer for those unused to it, but happy to experiment.
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INTERRAIL TRIP REFLECTIONS
I visited Amsterdam, Assen area (day ticket), Cologne,
Frankfurt via Rhine valley, Strasbourg and Paris on a 6 night/7 day trip using a 5 day Interrail Flexi Pass (5 days in 1 month)
KIT:
I used a cheap 40L backpack (Go outdoors: eurohike Tibet 40)
with a change of clothes, toiletries, 1st aid kit, waterproof jacket a couple
of books and that was it. (Except for a Android tablet) plus a powerbank &
EU Travel Adapter Charger, 65W Power Plug with Multiple Ports.
In practice
powerbank was used twice.
Mostly charged on the train as I went and adapter was
small and superb at coping with dual equipment charging at a fast rate
Wasn't heavy and plenty of spare capacity.
Passport, money, phone, pen/notebook in a bumbag front facing, and covered by clothing when possible.
Worked wonderfully as I could put the pack between my legs on the train, and didn't have to worry about watching it on the luggage racks. Took it with me when I went to the toilet/restaurant car and made it a lot simpler to get on/off the trains. You only have to watch the fun people with wheely suitcases have trying to get on /off the train, and the lack of luggage space to store it on busy routes, to appreciate keep it light/keep it simple.
Tablet was loaded with copies of my printed passes, local train apps, train map apps & email access. Plan was to connect to the internet via wifi or mobilephone tethering (very easy to do) and use it as a fallback in case of emergency.
In practice I never used it & I wouldn't bother in future.
TIP-TOILETRIES
I picked up a small set of containers for shampoo/bodywash and aftershave.
I already had a full size quick dry camping travel towel - useful in hostel but unnecessary in hotel
Managed 2 showers in 6 nights and returned with some still half full
TIP- FALLBACK FOR PHONE/PASS
Once home I found an old smartphone which I will clear and load up with similar material in future. My fall back in case the main phone fails and I need to transfer the Pass.
(check sim will transfer across between kit!)
TIP- CHARGING ON TRAINS:
The Eurostar, TGV and intercity services all had charging points at the seats although sometimes it took a bit of searching!
On Eurostar and TGV particularly your seat mate may be working/relaxing with a laptop. I regularly charged my phone (essential for planning/interrail pass) and Garmin watch tracker (it triggered each time I started a walk, so those back home had an idea of where I was in real time - less worry for them)
The watch in particular became power hungry, probably due to the demands of the GPS handling the large distance changes between walk starts, and the difficulties of GPS in an urban environment. Once home battery usage returned to normal
I quickly discovered - especially if you only see one socket (TGV?) - grab it as soon as you sit down.
I only needed a quick 20-30 minute recharge. The laptop user next to me would inevitably hog it for the whole journey only disconnecting minutes before arrival. And then move onto their next wifi enabled/power socket rich environment. I didn't have that luxury.
He who snoozes loses.
Keep all you cables and charger in a side pocket/to hand so readily accessible to use.
TIP- RECHARGING IN EU:
Thanks to a post on the FB group I bought a simple multi adapter charger. Unlike the lower powered ones it maintained a strong charge despite having multiple devices plugged in. That included Samsung fast charge function.
Lightweight and easy to store away.
PASS:
Like many I was concerned about how the pass worked in
operation. In practice it was very simple to use, and any changes to itinerary
were easily made on the fly. No problem scanning at the station barriers.
A pity the app doesn't have a demo mode to try it out. I
watched a couple of videos but using it in real life was really far simpler.
Honestly it really was!
TIP: UK RETURN TRAVEL
I had some idea of likely departure time for my trip back home from Waterloo. During the returning Eurostar I set up a number of alternative homeward bound trips on the Interrail app so that once at Waterloo I could select and activate the one I needed. Safer to do it sat in a train seat than standing on a busy rail station whilst staying aware of your surroundings.
ACCOMODATION:
I used booking <dot> com making reservations on my laptop and also loaded the app onto my phone.
Bookings were simple to do and appeared on both platforms.
I could also check recent reviews to get the feel for a place (I deliberately made a point of leaving objective reviews based on my stay)
It meant all my bookings were
in one place and easier to manage. Also you are familiar with the site in case you need to make an emergency booking when travelling.
I'd be reluctant to using hostels again. I stayed in 2 and both were ok to sleep for the night, generally unfriendly & nothing like the UK YHA hostel/meeting like minded traveller experience.
Across all hostel/hotel stays only one offered kettle in the room. One had no coffee facilities on site at all.
TIP: EU PURCHASING POWER
If offered pay in euros on these platforms (you might have to search sometimes)
I've been using a CHASE card (no fee/soft credit check) for many years when travelling in the EU, or booking local services - even when sat in the UK making the purchase.
Effectively you are giving yourself a discount for the prices reduction Sterling/Pound.
Often the sterling price will be quite close to the the euro price, when the euro price is apprx 10% less.
Similarly paying for goods when in the EU - pay in euros.
TIP: FOOD/REFRESHMENT
Parisian boulangeries tend to open at 6:30am and are
unbeatable for coffee/pastry
Strasbourg started a little later 7:30-8:00 dependant on closeness to the station
All the bars I used were as equally happy to serve beer or coffee at any time of the day
Food/drink at the station tended to be expensive and not necessarily that great although nowhere near rip off UK/EU airport prices. I found walking 10 minutes or so away from the station produced a choice of better priced (and tastier) alternatives.
I always used the local supermarket (Use google maps to help here) for small bottles of water which I picked up as I went with one 500ml in use, and one spare. Also snacks for the train. Keeps the costs down.
Gare du Nord - there is a carrefour supermarket 2 mins outside the station and no road to cross. Water is in the downstairs section. It took me 3 visits before realising this is the main section.
SAFETY:
After an initial exposure to the teeming crowds at St
Pancras & Amsterdaam Central I never felt unsafe.
If I wanted to check my phone or transit screens I took care
to stand with my back to a wall, ideally well out of the main concourse routes,
but I do this in the UK as well.
Only sign of naughtiness was at Gare Nord, but as I was
wandering in and out of the station with 3 hours to kill I was able to explore
the whole area in depth & was keyed in to the ebb and flow of people in
transit, and those who were working the station passengers.
Except for 1 taxi I walked everywhere covering 35-40 miles
in the week. I found it the best way to get the feel of a location.
The main issue was the level of bicycle traffic which,
dependant on the city could become quite menacing at times. Except for Cologne
all the places I visited had very high cycle usage. I became very wary of
pedestrian crossings, traffic lights and one way systems as it was quite easy
to walk onto a cycleway, or get caught up with cyclists creating their own
short cuts, especially the fast food delivery merchants on electric bikes. Oh
and the bikes never slow down for anything!
My head was swivelling like an owl by the end of my trip,
but after an initial adjustment I just made sure to do a 360 lookaround, before
attempting any road crossing, and keep doing it as I crossed.
To put it in perspective, as a very occasional London
visitor I find the city too fast, too busy and cyclists likely to come at you
from all directions. When I passed through on my return London felt like a
quiet backwater, especially after the madness of Parisienne traffic.
TIP: TRAFFIC & BICYCLES
In cities it can be a madhouse even for those used to their busy home towns.
Assume nothing, stay alert.
Learnt to use your eyes and ears at every road crossing, pedestrian crossing etc etc.
Learn to swivel your head like an owl!
LANGUAGE:
Never an issue. I've no Dutch, minimal German and a
smattering of French.
Never a problem asking directions, ordering food or checking
in.
You get very good at reading body language, and the brain's
language centres seem to dredge up information from school lessons thought long
lost.
(But no idea why I always wanted to use Portuguese to say
thank you in France)
TIP: LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
I used the Google Translator phone app.
Took 5 minutes to pick up how to use it and will cover all the EU and beyond
ESSENTIALS:
Google maps app. Indispensable for walking around. I set up
key station/accommodation routes before I set out, and send them to my phone to
be stored as a trip widget.
Just needed to click on the widget when needed, and then put
it out of sight in my bumbag as I walked. The audio warns of any direction
changes and I only needed to check the screen a couple of times for self
confidence.
And for return to station routes, just load the trip and use
the arrows to reverse the journey.
TIP: GOOGLE MAPS
Using/Storing a route - see foot of this post
MISCELLANEOUS
TIPS: TOILETS
Use train facilities about 10 minutes before arrival; Stations/platforms tend to charge for toilet use (typically 1 euro) Similarly when at a bar/restaurant.
I don't think I ever saw a public toilet.
TIPS: SMOKING
I know. I'm a throwback, but the EU inhabitants do like their cigars, especially in Germany.
Despite widespread smoke-free notices across all stations the Interrail pass allowed me to quickly pop outside the station.
Laughingly the German stations had large No Smoking signs but dedicated smoking areas on each platform (a large box painted on the ground!)
TIPS: STATION ACCESS
Netherlands - All the stations that I used had ticket/pass scan barriers preventing access. They accept the Pass QR ticket
Germany/France - free access to stations; Scan access to platforms. Sometimes.
UK Waterloo/St Pancras - free access to stations; Scan access to platforms.
It only took me a couple of tries to get used to the use of phone at the barrier. I had more of a learning difficulty with trying to scan my passport at the border controls
NEXT TIME AROUND
Things to leave out
- Tablet (replace with old phone)
- Departure on trains planned for late morning/lunchtime - Didn't work for me. Set an earlier time
Things to add in
- Water heating for coffee - already sourced one of these to experiment with at home. I looked at collapsible kettle version, but suspect silicon container may not be that durable and I want to keep things light/small
- Extra underwear & possibly 1 summer weight top - I had the space, and even more now I've removed the tablet bulk/weight
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USING GOOGLE MAPS
All methods use Google maps either on laptop or phone - have a play at home first to become familiar with it in comfortable surroundings. I guess Apple etc has a similar facility
I originally used my laptop for initial planning but quickly switched to the phone app as I learnt more about how to use it - its one of those 'play with it and you get better very quickly' sort of things.
METHOD: Set up:
- Load Google Maps
- Select the map type as default
- (click the symbol below & right of the "Search" box - looks like a box with a + sign)
- Using satellite view will drain your battery - and your data download quota!
- Remember to select the little walking man to get the pedestrian route!
Now you can either create a predetermined route using your laptop at home, and then send it to your phone, or select the point you wish to go to and then click on the Directions button (bottom right on phone) and select "Your location"
METHOD: Plan your journey for use now
- Load Google maps
- In search box type destination required
- Click on Directions button (bottom left)
- Either use the existing "Your location" to use immediately, or select your preferred start point
- Click on Start button (bottom left) & then you are off and walking
METHOD: Plan your journey for use later
- Follow the method above but do not click on Start instead ...
- Click on vertical 3 dots on right of "Your location" box
- Select "Add route to home screen"
- Click Add
- A widget will now be on your phone screen - simply click on it to load GMaps & route
- To remove phone widget press and hold the icon & it will ask you if you want it deleted
METHOD: Finding your way back
- Load route
- Click on the up/down arrow to the left of the destination box
- Route will be reversed
METHOD: Adding stops/take a detour
- Click on vertical 3 dots on right of "Your location" box
- Select "Edit stops"
- Select "Choose destination" & add new stop
- Once complete you can then add additional stops step by step
- To put stops into the correct order use the two horizontal bars on the right to move up/down
ANY FEEDBACK ON IMPROVING THIS - PLEASE LEAVE ME A COMMENT --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Labels: interrail
TUE 5/5/2026 Day 7 PASS 5 paris to home
Rail Miles: 304; Walk Miles: 6.22;
After the previous evenings pre sleep shenanigans, and somewhat predictably, I woke very early at sparrows cough and looking for my morning caffeine bump start. Rather than return the favour of noisily packing I slipped out of the room and downstairs to talk with the receptionist, barely awake at this point in her overnight shift.
Nope - no coffee to be had on the premises, but maybe a boulangerie locally? But unsure as to where that might be.
Happily the next door shop provided salvation.
6:30am and the recently opened boulangerie was already busy. Fresh coffee and newly baked pastry. I sat outside watching Paris life starting to move up through its gear changes for another manic day.
Refreshed I returned to the dorm. My plan had been to take a meandering route to the station and start to head for the UK. But, as I noted earlier, this a.m. sightseeing approach hadn't really worked for me, so by 7am, rather than just hang around, I decided to pack and head off.
There may have been a bit of clanging made when emptying my locker and packing to go.
Purely accidental I can assure you.
Good morning you sleepyheads (Karma can be a bitch folks)
Effectively a straight line route, with little need to check for course changes, gave me an opportunity to more fully appreciate the layout of Paris on pavements relatively empty of pedestrians and bike traffic steadily increasing.
It felt like Paris is not a city per se, but a group of districts pressed together. The Arrondissesments shown on the map often had distinct centres for bars, restaurants & shopping. Rather than try to "see" Paris any future trip should instead be looking at exploring some of the Arrondissesments.
For me Paris is more for passing through, possibly catching a meal on the way, rather than spending any length of time here.
The city traffic is manic, and travelling around, even on foot, can be a lengthy process requiring care.
I didn't use metro services in any of my stop overs, partly to avoid theft risk, partly I'm not a fan of sardine packed underground travelling, but mostly so that I could see the place I was moving through. But when compared to Amsterdam & Strasbourg, with their highly effective tram networks, you can really feel the benefits from a huge reduction in street traffic. And an easy way to view a city with little effort.
Eglise Saint-Ambroise?
After an hour I was nearing the station so I took the opportunity of restful break at a fortuitous bar I came across L'Atmosphere. A small oasis of calm. Sat by a canal, listening to parakeets (again) with a small park nearby I watched the early morning school run progressing. Idyllic and highly recommended as a rest stop for those with time to kill between train connections at the nearby Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est. With a quieter metro connection just across the canal.
Onto Gare du Nord to check departure information. My attempt to check in early failed. French Eurostar permits entry 2 hours before departure time.
4 hours to kill then.
I wandered the station concourse, exploring the various nooks and crannies, before heading back to the streets and wandering the area north of the station.
Inevitably I ended up outside yet another bar for coffee, to avoid the increasing pedestrian traffic. Plenty of small places to choose from rather than the large and brash tourist eateries opposite the station entrance.
And hats off to this guy. As a sighted person I felt my 5 primary senses were barely enough to cope with the Paris mania. (The other pedestrian was just passing and was providing no assistance)
A few visits to the local Carrefor, to stock up with food/water at a reasonable price, and I was mostly just kicking my heels until departure.
Finally I returned to the Eurostar barrier. Another EES check (specs off this time!) which was really well operated. A room of 20+ terminals, staff on hand to assist the process, and a watchful technician, who I had spotted earlier starting up the terminals, watching for any equipment failure.
A positive implementation of the EES system, and something the airports, I've used, could learn from.
Pinged at the X-Ray (Leatherman again) the security guard was intrigued by the tool and smilingly waved me on (Take note Notre Dame - sensible precautions)
Both border checks cleared the departure lounge was very well equipped with eateries and, if you bothered to walk a little further, plenty of seating. As each Eurostar service can handle 750 - 900 passengers its a welcoming approach. I had time to sit and watching the lengthening queue of 200+ passengers awaiting boarding for the train before mine. No idea why they queued. The moment the gate opened the queue quickly cleared the gate but only for them to then queue to get on the train, and then queue for luggage storage,
When my train was announced, an hour later, I sat with amusement watching the scene repeat itself.Once it cleared I simply wandered through the empty gate, stepped on the train and moved easily to my reserved seat putting my bag by my legs.
I quickly plugged my electronics into the seat socket for a 20 minute recharge, before the laptop user next to me would inevitably hog it for the next couple of hours, only disconnecting minutes before alighting. Another trip lesson learnt earlier.
Clearing St Pancras customs was like any airport arrival, and with Google Maps engaged, head down looking for the exit, I was one of the first few through and seconds later out onto the mean streets of London. Another small backpack benefit - no need to stop?
But no longer quite so mean.On my way out London had felt like bedlam. After Paris London now felt almost relaxed and easy going. Even the entrance to Waterloo station, with people rushing in all directions, was a breeze.
I'd not been quick enough to catch the early return train to home, despite setting a blistering pace. As I've observed earlier - street walking is not countryside walking. There is so much stop/start/change direction any decent pace is impossible.A quick play with the Interrail app and I set up the final leg of my journey with a 1/2 hour wait and then to journey's end.
An enjoyable and intriguing week. No dramas. An open and flexible approach to travelling (sic Frankfurt screw up)
Its addictive.
Labels: interrail
Monday, May 11
MON 4/5/2026 Day 6 PASS 4 Strasbourg to PARIS
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delight
The station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this place
The tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Onwards, stopping for a crepe and coffee en-route to Notre Dame.Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Until this point my blog has always been used as record of walks, wildcamping trip reports & outdoor reflections.
But nowadays the blog as a communication tool has been largely forgotten, replaced by social media at its worse (please DON'T post a video of it!), or Substack at its best (Salutations Chris Townsend & Ron Turnball - keeping the written word alive and interesting).
Any interaction between myself and the reader has effectively disappeared.
Which is a loss as I've learnt much from commentors over the years, and formed some longstanding bonds with people I probably will never meet in person.
Social media has offered some of this, but it can be a minefield of petulance at times, occasionally inadvertent, but often malicious.
Indeed I've used it with varying levels of interest, ever since this blog first appeared back in July 2006. But its use as a meaningful communication media has debased into what it has now become.
(And don't get me onto Twitter/X.
I didn't see the point when I was first shown it back in 2007 ish, and its become an even more abused vehicle detrimental to everyday good communication.
Whatever bright spark in a company's Customer Services thought that posting a 'immediate service update' on X could, or should, ever replace proper communication.
Bah! A stinkingly bad practice)
[But back to the point Johnny boy.....]
Over the last few years I've kept the website fed with cash to keep it alive, even when disinterested, using it as an electronic diary of field trips, nowadays for my own purposes.
And often its useful as a quick reference tool to lookup past location/trip ideas that I'd noted in the past.
Especially the photos.
Like most of us these days its ... see something - snap it with the phone - (possibly) send it to a friend ....... and then it flies off into the cloud.
A virtual photo album.
Never to be picked up and lovingly leafed through with a reminiscence nodding at past memories.
My wildcamping trip reports will still continue, as will the occasional worthy-of-note walk.
But despite the "Walk about in the UK" nomenclature I'm now going to expand the remit to Interrail and walking outside the UK.
OK the walking is more of a point to point transit trip, but as my personal record of activity, it meets my needs.
And I'm paying for it all, so what I say goes bud!
🤣
Interrail - washup & reflections
TOTAL: Rail Miles: 1,354 ; Walk Miles: 36.42;
Much of this was originally posted on the excellent Facebook page Interrailing for the older crowd one of the few groups I regularly look forward to following these days due to the positive and informative discourse that takes place there, and the friendly contributors. A real rarity on FB.
As is my usual practice this is a summary of things that worked, and things to change next time around.
I've used the original post as a template and added the additional things I've remembered whilst compiling my daily trip reports, and added some pixs/links that the FB format doesn't readily support.
There is also a Google maps primer for those unused to it, but happy to experiment.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTERRAIL TRIP REFLECTIONS
I visited Amsterdam, Assen area (day ticket), Cologne,
Frankfurt via Rhine valley, Strasbourg and Paris on a 6 night/7 day trip using a 5 day Interrail Flexi Pass (5 days in 1 month)
KIT:
I used a cheap 40L backpack (Go outdoors: eurohike Tibet 40)
with a change of clothes, toiletries, 1st aid kit, waterproof jacket a couple
of books and that was it. (Except for a Android tablet) plus a powerbank &
EU Travel Adapter Charger, 65W Power Plug with Multiple Ports.
In practice
powerbank was used twice.
Mostly charged on the train as I went and adapter was
small and superb at coping with dual equipment charging at a fast rate
Wasn't heavy and plenty of spare capacity.
Passport, money, phone, pen/notebook in a bumbag front facing, and covered by clothing when possible.
Worked wonderfully as I could put the pack between my legs on the train, and didn't have to worry about watching it on the luggage racks. Took it with me when I went to the toilet/restaurant car and made it a lot simpler to get on/off the trains. You only have to watch the fun people with wheely suitcases have trying to get on /off the train, and the lack of luggage space to store it on busy routes, to appreciate keep it light/keep it simple.
Tablet was loaded with copies of my printed passes, local train apps, train map apps & email access. Plan was to connect to the internet via wifi or mobilephone tethering (very easy to do) and use it as a fallback in case of emergency.
In practice I never used it & I wouldn't bother in future.
TIP-TOILETRIES
I picked up a small set of containers for shampoo/bodywash and aftershave.
I already had a full size quick dry camping travel towel - useful in hostel but unnecessary in hotel
Managed 2 showers in 6 nights and returned with some still half full
TIP- FALLBACK FOR PHONE/PASS
Once home I found an old smartphone which I will clear and load up with similar material in future. My fall back in case the main phone fails and I need to transfer the Pass.
(check sim will transfer across between kit!)
TIP- CHARGING ON TRAINS:
The Eurostar, TGV and intercity services all had charging points at the seats although sometimes it took a bit of searching!
On Eurostar and TGV particularly your seat mate may be working/relaxing with a laptop. I regularly charged my phone (essential for planning/interrail pass) and Garmin watch tracker (it triggered each time I started a walk, so those back home had an idea of where I was in real time - less worry for them)
The watch in particular became power hungry, probably due to the demands of the GPS handling the large distance changes between walk starts, and the difficulties of GPS in an urban environment. Once home battery usage returned to normal
I quickly discovered - especially if you only see one socket (TGV?) - grab it as soon as you sit down.
I only needed a quick 20-30 minute recharge. The laptop user next to me would inevitably hog it for the whole journey only disconnecting minutes before arrival. And then move onto their next wifi enabled/power socket rich environment. I didn't have that luxury.
He who snoozes loses.
Keep all you cables and charger in a side pocket/to hand so readily accessible to use.
TIP- RECHARGING IN EU:
Thanks to a post on the FB group I bought a simple multi adapter charger. Unlike the lower powered ones it maintained a strong charge despite having multiple devices plugged in. That included Samsung fast charge function.
Lightweight and easy to store away.
PASS:
Like many I was concerned about how the pass worked in
operation. In practice it was very simple to use, and any changes to itinerary
were easily made on the fly. No problem scanning at the station barriers.
A pity the app doesn't have a demo mode to try it out. I
watched a couple of videos but using it in real life was really far simpler.
Honestly it really was!
TIP: UK RETURN TRAVEL
I had some idea of likely departure time for my trip back home from Waterloo. During the returning Eurostar I set up a number of alternative homeward bound trips on the Interrail app so that once at Waterloo I could select and activate the one I needed. Safer to do it sat in a train seat than standing on a busy rail station whilst staying aware of your surroundings.
ACCOMODATION:
I used booking <dot> com making reservations on my laptop and also loaded the app onto my phone.
Bookings were simple to do and appeared on both platforms.
I could also check recent reviews to get the feel for a place (I deliberately made a point of leaving objective reviews based on my stay)
It meant all my bookings were
in one place and easier to manage. Also you are familiar with the site in case you need to make an emergency booking when travelling.
I'd be reluctant to using hostels again. I stayed in 2 and both were ok to sleep for the night, generally unfriendly & nothing like the UK YHA hostel/meeting like minded traveller experience.
Across all hostel/hotel stays only one offered kettle in the room. One had no coffee facilities on site at all.
TIP: EU PURCHASING POWER
If offered pay in euros on these platforms (you might have to search sometimes)
I've been using a CHASE card (no fee/soft credit check) for many years when travelling in the EU, or booking local services - even when sat in the UK making the purchase.
Effectively you are giving yourself a discount for the prices reduction Sterling/Pound.
Often the sterling price will be quite close to the the euro price, when the euro price is apprx 10% less.
Similarly paying for goods when in the EU - pay in euros.
TIP: FOOD/REFRESHMENT
Parisian boulangeries tend to open at 6:30am and are
unbeatable for coffee/pastry
Strasbourg started a little later 7:30-8:00 dependant on closeness to the station
All the bars I used were as equally happy to serve beer or coffee at any time of the day
Food/drink at the station tended to be expensive and not necessarily that great although nowhere near rip off UK/EU airport prices. I found walking 10 minutes or so away from the station produced a choice of better priced (and tastier) alternatives.
I always used the local supermarket (Use google maps to help here) for small bottles of water which I picked up as I went with one 500ml in use, and one spare. Also snacks for the train. Keeps the costs down.
Gare du Nord - there is a carrefour supermarket 2 mins outside the station and no road to cross. Water is in the downstairs section. It took me 3 visits before realising this is the main section.
SAFETY:
After an initial exposure to the teeming crowds at St
Pancras & Amsterdaam Central I never felt unsafe.
If I wanted to check my phone or transit screens I took care
to stand with my back to a wall, ideally well out of the main concourse routes,
but I do this in the UK as well.
Only sign of naughtiness was at Gare Nord, but as I was
wandering in and out of the station with 3 hours to kill I was able to explore
the whole area in depth & was keyed in to the ebb and flow of people in
transit, and those who were working the station passengers.
Except for 1 taxi I walked everywhere covering 35-40 miles
in the week. I found it the best way to get the feel of a location.
The main issue was the level of bicycle traffic which,
dependant on the city could become quite menacing at times. Except for Cologne
all the places I visited had very high cycle usage. I became very wary of
pedestrian crossings, traffic lights and one way systems as it was quite easy
to walk onto a cycleway, or get caught up with cyclists creating their own
short cuts, especially the fast food delivery merchants on electric bikes. Oh
and the bikes never slow down for anything!
My head was swivelling like an owl by the end of my trip,
but after an initial adjustment I just made sure to do a 360 lookaround, before
attempting any road crossing, and keep doing it as I crossed.
To put it in perspective, as a very occasional London
visitor I find the city too fast, too busy and cyclists likely to come at you
from all directions. When I passed through on my return London felt like a
quiet backwater, especially after the madness of Parisienne traffic.
TIP: TRAFFIC & BICYCLES
In cities it can be a madhouse even for those used to their busy home towns.
Assume nothing, stay alert.
Learnt to use your eyes and ears at every road crossing, pedestrian crossing etc etc.
Learn to swivel your head like an owl!
LANGUAGE:
Never an issue. I've no Dutch, minimal German and a
smattering of French.
Never a problem asking directions, ordering food or checking
in.
You get very good at reading body language, and the brain's
language centres seem to dredge up information from school lessons thought long
lost.
(But no idea why I always wanted to use Portuguese to say
thank you in France)
TIP: LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
I used the Google Translator phone app.
Took 5 minutes to pick up how to use it and will cover all the EU and beyond
ESSENTIALS:
Google maps app. Indispensable for walking around. I set up
key station/accommodation routes before I set out, and send them to my phone to
be stored as a trip widget.
Just needed to click on the widget when needed, and then put
it out of sight in my bumbag as I walked. The audio warns of any direction
changes and I only needed to check the screen a couple of times for self
confidence.
And for return to station routes, just load the trip and use
the arrows to reverse the journey.
TIP: GOOGLE MAPS
Using/Storing a route - see foot of this post
MISCELLANEOUS
TIPS: TOILETS
Use train facilities about 10 minutes before arrival; Stations/platforms tend to charge for toilet use (typically 1 euro) Similarly when at a bar/restaurant.
I don't think I ever saw a public toilet.
TIPS: SMOKING
I know. I'm a throwback, but the EU inhabitants do like their cigars, especially in Germany.
Despite widespread smoke-free notices across all stations the Interrail pass allowed me to quickly pop outside the station.
Laughingly the German stations had large No Smoking signs but dedicated smoking areas on each platform (a large box painted on the ground!)
TIPS: STATION ACCESS
Netherlands - All the stations that I used had ticket/pass scan barriers preventing access. They accept the Pass QR ticket
Germany/France - free access to stations; Scan access to platforms. Sometimes.
UK Waterloo/St Pancras - free access to stations; Scan access to platforms.
It only took me a couple of tries to get used to the use of phone at the barrier. I had more of a learning difficulty with trying to scan my passport at the border controls
NEXT TIME AROUND
Things to leave out
- Tablet (replace with old phone)
- Departure on trains planned for late morning/lunchtime - Didn't work for me. Set an earlier time
Things to add in
- Water heating for coffee - already sourced one of these to experiment with at home. I looked at collapsible kettle version, but suspect silicon container may not be that durable and I want to keep things light/small
- Extra underwear & possibly 1 summer weight top - I had the space, and even more now I've removed the tablet bulk/weight
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USING GOOGLE MAPS
All methods use Google maps either on laptop or phone - have a play at home first to become familiar with it in comfortable surroundings. I guess Apple etc has a similar facility
I originally used my laptop for initial planning but quickly switched to the phone app as I learnt more about how to use it - its one of those 'play with it and you get better very quickly' sort of things.
METHOD: Set up:
- Load Google Maps
- Select the map type as default
- (click the symbol below & right of the "Search" box - looks like a box with a + sign)
- Using satellite view will drain your battery - and your data download quota!
- Remember to select the little walking man to get the pedestrian route!
Now you can either create a predetermined route using your laptop at home, and then send it to your phone, or select the point you wish to go to and then click on the Directions button (bottom right on phone) and select "Your location"
METHOD: Plan your journey for use now
- Load Google maps
- In search box type destination required
- Click on Directions button (bottom left)
- Either use the existing "Your location" to use immediately, or select your preferred start point
- Click on Start button (bottom left) & then you are off and walking
METHOD: Plan your journey for use later
- Follow the method above but do not click on Start instead ...
- Click on vertical 3 dots on right of "Your location" box
- Select "Add route to home screen"
- Click Add
- A widget will now be on your phone screen - simply click on it to load GMaps & route
- To remove phone widget press and hold the icon & it will ask you if you want it deleted
METHOD: Finding your way back
- Load route
- Click on the up/down arrow to the left of the destination box
- Route will be reversed
METHOD: Adding stops/take a detour
- Click on vertical 3 dots on right of "Your location" box
- Select "Edit stops"
- Select "Choose destination" & add new stop
- Once complete you can then add additional stops step by step
- To put stops into the correct order use the two horizontal bars on the right to move up/down
ANY FEEDBACK ON IMPROVING THIS - PLEASE LEAVE ME A COMMENT --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Labels: interrail
TUE 5/5/2026 Day 7 PASS 5 paris to home
Rail Miles: 304; Walk Miles: 6.22;
After the previous evenings pre sleep shenanigans, and somewhat predictably, I woke very early at sparrows cough and looking for my morning caffeine bump start. Rather than return the favour of noisily packing I slipped out of the room and downstairs to talk with the receptionist, barely awake at this point in her overnight shift.
Nope - no coffee to be had on the premises, but maybe a boulangerie locally? But unsure as to where that might be.
Happily the next door shop provided salvation.
6:30am and the recently opened boulangerie was already busy. Fresh coffee and newly baked pastry. I sat outside watching Paris life starting to move up through its gear changes for another manic day.
Refreshed I returned to the dorm. My plan had been to take a meandering route to the station and start to head for the UK. But, as I noted earlier, this a.m. sightseeing approach hadn't really worked for me, so by 7am, rather than just hang around, I decided to pack and head off.
There may have been a bit of clanging made when emptying my locker and packing to go.
Purely accidental I can assure you.
Good morning you sleepyheads (Karma can be a bitch folks)
Effectively a straight line route, with little need to check for course changes, gave me an opportunity to more fully appreciate the layout of Paris on pavements relatively empty of pedestrians and bike traffic steadily increasing.
It felt like Paris is not a city per se, but a group of districts pressed together. The Arrondissesments shown on the map often had distinct centres for bars, restaurants & shopping. Rather than try to "see" Paris any future trip should instead be looking at exploring some of the Arrondissesments.
For me Paris is more for passing through, possibly catching a meal on the way, rather than spending any length of time here.
The city traffic is manic, and travelling around, even on foot, can be a lengthy process requiring care.
I didn't use metro services in any of my stop overs, partly to avoid theft risk, partly I'm not a fan of sardine packed underground travelling, but mostly so that I could see the place I was moving through. But when compared to Amsterdam & Strasbourg, with their highly effective tram networks, you can really feel the benefits from a huge reduction in street traffic. And an easy way to view a city with little effort.
Eglise Saint-Ambroise?
After an hour I was nearing the station so I took the opportunity of restful break at a fortuitous bar I came across L'Atmosphere. A small oasis of calm. Sat by a canal, listening to parakeets (again) with a small park nearby I watched the early morning school run progressing. Idyllic and highly recommended as a rest stop for those with time to kill between train connections at the nearby Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est. With a quieter metro connection just across the canal.
Onto Gare du Nord to check departure information. My attempt to check in early failed. French Eurostar permits entry 2 hours before departure time.
4 hours to kill then.
I wandered the station concourse, exploring the various nooks and crannies, before heading back to the streets and wandering the area north of the station.
Inevitably I ended up outside yet another bar for coffee, to avoid the increasing pedestrian traffic. Plenty of small places to choose from rather than the large and brash tourist eateries opposite the station entrance.
And hats off to this guy. As a sighted person I felt my 5 primary senses were barely enough to cope with the Paris mania. (The other pedestrian was just passing and was providing no assistance)
A few visits to the local Carrefor, to stock up with food/water at a reasonable price, and I was mostly just kicking my heels until departure.
Finally I returned to the Eurostar barrier. Another EES check (specs off this time!) which was really well operated. A room of 20+ terminals, staff on hand to assist the process, and a watchful technician, who I had spotted earlier starting up the terminals, watching for any equipment failure.
A positive implementation of the EES system, and something the airports, I've used, could learn from.
Pinged at the X-Ray (Leatherman again) the security guard was intrigued by the tool and smilingly waved me on (Take note Notre Dame - sensible precautions)
Both border checks cleared the departure lounge was very well equipped with eateries and, if you bothered to walk a little further, plenty of seating. As each Eurostar service can handle 750 - 900 passengers its a welcoming approach. I had time to sit and watching the lengthening queue of 200+ passengers awaiting boarding for the train before mine. No idea why they queued. The moment the gate opened the queue quickly cleared the gate but only for them to then queue to get on the train, and then queue for luggage storage,
When my train was announced, an hour later, I sat with amusement watching the scene repeat itself.Once it cleared I simply wandered through the empty gate, stepped on the train and moved easily to my reserved seat putting my bag by my legs.
I quickly plugged my electronics into the seat socket for a 20 minute recharge, before the laptop user next to me would inevitably hog it for the next couple of hours, only disconnecting minutes before alighting. Another trip lesson learnt earlier.
Clearing St Pancras customs was like any airport arrival, and with Google Maps engaged, head down looking for the exit, I was one of the first few through and seconds later out onto the mean streets of London. Another small backpack benefit - no need to stop?
But no longer quite so mean.On my way out London had felt like bedlam. After Paris London now felt almost relaxed and easy going. Even the entrance to Waterloo station, with people rushing in all directions, was a breeze.
I'd not been quick enough to catch the early return train to home, despite setting a blistering pace. As I've observed earlier - street walking is not countryside walking. There is so much stop/start/change direction any decent pace is impossible.A quick play with the Interrail app and I set up the final leg of my journey with a 1/2 hour wait and then to journey's end.
An enjoyable and intriguing week. No dramas. An open and flexible approach to travelling (sic Frankfurt screw up)
Its addictive.
Labels: interrail
Monday, May 11
MON 4/5/2026 Day 6 PASS 4 Strasbourg to PARIS
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delight
The station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this place
The tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Onwards, stopping for a crepe and coffee en-route to Notre Dame.Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
TOTAL: Rail Miles: 1,354 ; Walk Miles: 36.42;
Much of this was originally posted on the excellent Facebook page Interrailing for the older crowd one of the few groups I regularly look forward to following these days due to the positive and informative discourse that takes place there, and the friendly contributors. A real rarity on FB.
As is my usual practice this is a summary of things that worked, and things to change next time around.
I've used the original post as a template and added the additional things I've remembered whilst compiling my daily trip reports, and added some pixs/links that the FB format doesn't readily support.
There is also a Google maps primer for those unused to it, but happy to experiment.
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INTERRAIL TRIP REFLECTIONS
I visited Amsterdam, Assen area (day ticket), Cologne,
Frankfurt via Rhine valley, Strasbourg and Paris on a 6 night/7 day trip using a 5 day Interrail Flexi Pass (5 days in 1 month)
KIT:
I used a cheap 40L backpack (Go outdoors: eurohike Tibet 40) with a change of clothes, toiletries, 1st aid kit, waterproof jacket a couple of books and that was it. (Except for a Android tablet) plus a powerbank & EU Travel Adapter Charger, 65W Power Plug with Multiple Ports.
In practice powerbank was used twice.
Mostly charged on the train as I went and adapter was small and superb at coping with dual equipment charging at a fast rate
Wasn't heavy and plenty of spare capacity.
Passport, money, phone, pen/notebook in a bumbag front facing, and covered by clothing when possible.
Worked wonderfully as I could put the pack between my legs on the train, and didn't have to worry about watching it on the luggage racks. Took it with me when I went to the toilet/restaurant car and made it a lot simpler to get on/off the trains. You only have to watch the fun people with wheely suitcases have trying to get on /off the train, and the lack of luggage space to store it on busy routes, to appreciate keep it light/keep it simple.
Tablet was loaded with copies of my printed passes, local train apps, train map apps & email access. Plan was to connect to the internet via wifi or mobilephone tethering (very easy to do) and use it as a fallback in case of emergency.
In practice I never used it & I wouldn't bother in future.
TIP-TOILETRIES
I picked up a small set of containers for shampoo/bodywash and aftershave.
I already had a full size quick dry camping travel towel - useful in hostel but unnecessary in hotel
Managed 2 showers in 6 nights and returned with some still half full
TIP- FALLBACK FOR PHONE/PASS
Once home I found an old smartphone which I will clear and load up with similar material in future. My fall back in case the main phone fails and I need to transfer the Pass.
(check sim will transfer across between kit!)
TIP- CHARGING ON TRAINS:
The Eurostar, TGV and intercity services all had charging points at the seats although sometimes it took a bit of searching!
On Eurostar and TGV particularly your seat mate may be working/relaxing with a laptop. I regularly charged my phone (essential for planning/interrail pass) and Garmin watch tracker (it triggered each time I started a walk, so those back home had an idea of where I was in real time - less worry for them)
The watch in particular became power hungry, probably due to the demands of the GPS handling the large distance changes between walk starts, and the difficulties of GPS in an urban environment. Once home battery usage returned to normal
I quickly discovered - especially if you only see one socket (TGV?) - grab it as soon as you sit down.
I only needed a quick 20-30 minute recharge. The laptop user next to me would inevitably hog it for the whole journey only disconnecting minutes before arrival. And then move onto their next wifi enabled/power socket rich environment. I didn't have that luxury.
He who snoozes loses.
Keep all you cables and charger in a side pocket/to hand so readily accessible to use.
TIP- RECHARGING IN EU:
Thanks to a post on the FB group I bought a simple multi adapter charger. Unlike the lower powered ones it maintained a strong charge despite having multiple devices plugged in. That included Samsung fast charge function.
Lightweight and easy to store away.
PASS:
Like many I was concerned about how the pass worked in
operation. In practice it was very simple to use, and any changes to itinerary
were easily made on the fly. No problem scanning at the station barriers.
A pity the app doesn't have a demo mode to try it out. I
watched a couple of videos but using it in real life was really far simpler.
Honestly it really was!
TIP: UK RETURN TRAVEL
I had some idea of likely departure time for my trip back home from Waterloo. During the returning Eurostar I set up a number of alternative homeward bound trips on the Interrail app so that once at Waterloo I could select and activate the one I needed. Safer to do it sat in a train seat than standing on a busy rail station whilst staying aware of your surroundings.
ACCOMODATION:
I used booking <dot> com making reservations on my laptop and also loaded the app onto my phone.
Bookings were simple to do and appeared on both platforms.
I could also check recent reviews to get the feel for a place (I deliberately made a point of leaving objective reviews based on my stay)
It meant all my bookings were in one place and easier to manage. Also you are familiar with the site in case you need to make an emergency booking when travelling.
I'd be reluctant to using hostels again. I stayed in 2 and both were ok to sleep for the night, generally unfriendly & nothing like the UK YHA hostel/meeting like minded traveller experience.
Across all hostel/hotel stays only one offered kettle in the room. One had no coffee facilities on site at all.
TIP: EU PURCHASING POWER
If offered pay in euros on these platforms (you might have to search sometimes)
I've been using a CHASE card (no fee/soft credit check) for many years when travelling in the EU, or booking local services - even when sat in the UK making the purchase.
Effectively you are giving yourself a discount for the prices reduction Sterling/Pound.
Often the sterling price will be quite close to the the euro price, when the euro price is apprx 10% less.
Similarly paying for goods when in the EU - pay in euros.
TIP: FOOD/REFRESHMENT
Parisian boulangeries tend to open at 6:30am and are unbeatable for coffee/pastry
Strasbourg started a little later 7:30-8:00 dependant on closeness to the station
All the bars I used were as equally happy to serve beer or coffee at any time of the day
Food/drink at the station tended to be expensive and not necessarily that great although nowhere near rip off UK/EU airport prices. I found walking 10 minutes or so away from the station produced a choice of better priced (and tastier) alternatives.
I always used the local supermarket (Use google maps to help here) for small bottles of water which I picked up as I went with one 500ml in use, and one spare. Also snacks for the train. Keeps the costs down.
Gare du Nord - there is a carrefour supermarket 2 mins outside the station and no road to cross. Water is in the downstairs section. It took me 3 visits before realising this is the main section.
SAFETY:
After an initial exposure to the teeming crowds at St
Pancras & Amsterdaam Central I never felt unsafe.
If I wanted to check my phone or transit screens I took care
to stand with my back to a wall, ideally well out of the main concourse routes,
but I do this in the UK as well.
Only sign of naughtiness was at Gare Nord, but as I was
wandering in and out of the station with 3 hours to kill I was able to explore
the whole area in depth & was keyed in to the ebb and flow of people in
transit, and those who were working the station passengers.
Except for 1 taxi I walked everywhere covering 35-40 miles in the week. I found it the best way to get the feel of a location.
The main issue was the level of bicycle traffic which,
dependant on the city could become quite menacing at times. Except for Cologne
all the places I visited had very high cycle usage. I became very wary of
pedestrian crossings, traffic lights and one way systems as it was quite easy
to walk onto a cycleway, or get caught up with cyclists creating their own
short cuts, especially the fast food delivery merchants on electric bikes. Oh
and the bikes never slow down for anything!
My head was swivelling like an owl by the end of my trip,
but after an initial adjustment I just made sure to do a 360 lookaround, before
attempting any road crossing, and keep doing it as I crossed.
To put it in perspective, as a very occasional London
visitor I find the city too fast, too busy and cyclists likely to come at you
from all directions. When I passed through on my return London felt like a
quiet backwater, especially after the madness of Parisienne traffic.
TIP: TRAFFIC & BICYCLES
In cities it can be a madhouse even for those used to their busy home towns.
Assume nothing, stay alert.
Learnt to use your eyes and ears at every road crossing, pedestrian crossing etc etc.
Learn to swivel your head like an owl!
LANGUAGE:
Never an issue. I've no Dutch, minimal German and a
smattering of French.
Never a problem asking directions, ordering food or checking
in.
You get very good at reading body language, and the brain's
language centres seem to dredge up information from school lessons thought long
lost.
(But no idea why I always wanted to use Portuguese to say
thank you in France)
TIP: LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
I used the Google Translator phone app.
Took 5 minutes to pick up how to use it and will cover all the EU and beyond
ESSENTIALS:
Google maps app. Indispensable for walking around. I set up
key station/accommodation routes before I set out, and send them to my phone to
be stored as a trip widget.
Just needed to click on the widget when needed, and then put
it out of sight in my bumbag as I walked. The audio warns of any direction
changes and I only needed to check the screen a couple of times for self
confidence.
And for return to station routes, just load the trip and use
the arrows to reverse the journey.
TIP: GOOGLE MAPS
Using/Storing a route - see foot of this post
MISCELLANEOUS
TIPS: TOILETS
Use train facilities about 10 minutes before arrival; Stations/platforms tend to charge for toilet use (typically 1 euro) Similarly when at a bar/restaurant.
I don't think I ever saw a public toilet.
TIPS: SMOKING
I know. I'm a throwback, but the EU inhabitants do like their cigars, especially in Germany.
Despite widespread smoke-free notices across all stations the Interrail pass allowed me to quickly pop outside the station.
Laughingly the German stations had large No Smoking signs but dedicated smoking areas on each platform (a large box painted on the ground!)
TIPS: STATION ACCESS
Netherlands - All the stations that I used had ticket/pass scan barriers preventing access. They accept the Pass QR ticket
Germany/France - free access to stations; Scan access to platforms. Sometimes.
UK Waterloo/St Pancras - free access to stations; Scan access to platforms.
It only took me a couple of tries to get used to the use of phone at the barrier. I had more of a learning difficulty with trying to scan my passport at the border controls
NEXT TIME AROUND
Things to leave out
- Tablet (replace with old phone)
- Departure on trains planned for late morning/lunchtime - Didn't work for me. Set an earlier time
Things to add in
- Water heating for coffee - already sourced one of these to experiment with at home. I looked at collapsible kettle version, but suspect silicon container may not be that durable and I want to keep things light/small
- Extra underwear & possibly 1 summer weight top - I had the space, and even more now I've removed the tablet bulk/weight
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
USING GOOGLE MAPS
All methods use Google maps either on laptop or phone - have a play at home first to become familiar with it in comfortable surroundings. I guess Apple etc has a similar facility
I originally used my laptop for initial planning but quickly switched to the phone app as I learnt more about how to use it - its one of those 'play with it and you get better very quickly' sort of things.
METHOD: Set up:
- Load Google Maps
- Select the map type as default
- (click the symbol below & right of the "Search" box - looks like a box with a + sign)
- Using satellite view will drain your battery - and your data download quota!
- Remember to select the little walking man to get the pedestrian route!
Now you can either create a predetermined route using your laptop at home, and then send it to your phone, or select the point you wish to go to and then click on the Directions button (bottom right on phone) and select "Your location"
METHOD: Plan your journey for use now
- Load Google maps
- In search box type destination required
- Click on Directions button (bottom left)
- Either use the existing "Your location" to use immediately, or select your preferred start point
- Click on Start button (bottom left) & then you are off and walking
- Follow the method above but do not click on Start instead ...
- Click on vertical 3 dots on right of "Your location" box
- Select "Add route to home screen"
- Click Add
- A widget will now be on your phone screen - simply click on it to load GMaps & route
- To remove phone widget press and hold the icon & it will ask you if you want it deleted
METHOD: Finding your way back
- Load route
- Click on the up/down arrow to the left of the destination box
- Route will be reversed
METHOD: Adding stops/take a detour
- Click on vertical 3 dots on right of "Your location" box
- Select "Edit stops"
- Select "Choose destination" & add new stop
- Once complete you can then add additional stops step by step
- To put stops into the correct order use the two horizontal bars on the right to move up/down
Labels: interrail
TUE 5/5/2026 Day 7 PASS 5 paris to home
Rail Miles: 304; Walk Miles: 6.22;
After the previous evenings pre sleep shenanigans, and somewhat predictably, I woke very early at sparrows cough and looking for my morning caffeine bump start. Rather than return the favour of noisily packing I slipped out of the room and downstairs to talk with the receptionist, barely awake at this point in her overnight shift.
Nope - no coffee to be had on the premises, but maybe a boulangerie locally? But unsure as to where that might be.
Happily the next door shop provided salvation.
6:30am and the recently opened boulangerie was already busy. Fresh coffee and newly baked pastry. I sat outside watching Paris life starting to move up through its gear changes for another manic day.
Refreshed I returned to the dorm. My plan had been to take a meandering route to the station and start to head for the UK. But, as I noted earlier, this a.m. sightseeing approach hadn't really worked for me, so by 7am, rather than just hang around, I decided to pack and head off.
There may have been a bit of clanging made when emptying my locker and packing to go.
Purely accidental I can assure you.
Good morning you sleepyheads (Karma can be a bitch folks)
Effectively a straight line route, with little need to check for course changes, gave me an opportunity to more fully appreciate the layout of Paris on pavements relatively empty of pedestrians and bike traffic steadily increasing.
It felt like Paris is not a city per se, but a group of districts pressed together. The Arrondissesments shown on the map often had distinct centres for bars, restaurants & shopping. Rather than try to "see" Paris any future trip should instead be looking at exploring some of the Arrondissesments.
For me Paris is more for passing through, possibly catching a meal on the way, rather than spending any length of time here.
The city traffic is manic, and travelling around, even on foot, can be a lengthy process requiring care.
I didn't use metro services in any of my stop overs, partly to avoid theft risk, partly I'm not a fan of sardine packed underground travelling, but mostly so that I could see the place I was moving through. But when compared to Amsterdam & Strasbourg, with their highly effective tram networks, you can really feel the benefits from a huge reduction in street traffic. And an easy way to view a city with little effort.
Eglise Saint-Ambroise?
After an hour I was nearing the station so I took the opportunity of restful break at a fortuitous bar I came across L'Atmosphere. A small oasis of calm. Sat by a canal, listening to parakeets (again) with a small park nearby I watched the early morning school run progressing. Idyllic and highly recommended as a rest stop for those with time to kill between train connections at the nearby Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est. With a quieter metro connection just across the canal.
Onto Gare du Nord to check departure information. My attempt to check in early failed. French Eurostar permits entry 2 hours before departure time.
4 hours to kill then.
I wandered the station concourse, exploring the various nooks and crannies, before heading back to the streets and wandering the area north of the station.
Inevitably I ended up outside yet another bar for coffee, to avoid the increasing pedestrian traffic. Plenty of small places to choose from rather than the large and brash tourist eateries opposite the station entrance.
And hats off to this guy. As a sighted person I felt my 5 primary senses were barely enough to cope with the Paris mania. (The other pedestrian was just passing and was providing no assistance)
A few visits to the local Carrefor, to stock up with food/water at a reasonable price, and I was mostly just kicking my heels until departure.
Finally I returned to the Eurostar barrier. Another EES check (specs off this time!) which was really well operated. A room of 20+ terminals, staff on hand to assist the process, and a watchful technician, who I had spotted earlier starting up the terminals, watching for any equipment failure.
A positive implementation of the EES system, and something the airports, I've used, could learn from.
Pinged at the X-Ray (Leatherman again) the security guard was intrigued by the tool and smilingly waved me on (Take note Notre Dame - sensible precautions)
Both border checks cleared the departure lounge was very well equipped with eateries and, if you bothered to walk a little further, plenty of seating. As each Eurostar service can handle 750 - 900 passengers its a welcoming approach. I had time to sit and watching the lengthening queue of 200+ passengers awaiting boarding for the train before mine. No idea why they queued. The moment the gate opened the queue quickly cleared the gate but only for them to then queue to get on the train, and then queue for luggage storage,
When my train was announced, an hour later, I sat with amusement watching the scene repeat itself.Once it cleared I simply wandered through the empty gate, stepped on the train and moved easily to my reserved seat putting my bag by my legs.
I quickly plugged my electronics into the seat socket for a 20 minute recharge, before the laptop user next to me would inevitably hog it for the next couple of hours, only disconnecting minutes before alighting. Another trip lesson learnt earlier.
Clearing St Pancras customs was like any airport arrival, and with Google Maps engaged, head down looking for the exit, I was one of the first few through and seconds later out onto the mean streets of London. Another small backpack benefit - no need to stop?
But no longer quite so mean.On my way out London had felt like bedlam. After Paris London now felt almost relaxed and easy going. Even the entrance to Waterloo station, with people rushing in all directions, was a breeze.
I'd not been quick enough to catch the early return train to home, despite setting a blistering pace. As I've observed earlier - street walking is not countryside walking. There is so much stop/start/change direction any decent pace is impossible.A quick play with the Interrail app and I set up the final leg of my journey with a 1/2 hour wait and then to journey's end.
An enjoyable and intriguing week. No dramas. An open and flexible approach to travelling (sic Frankfurt screw up)
Its addictive.
Labels: interrail
Monday, May 11
MON 4/5/2026 Day 6 PASS 4 Strasbourg to PARIS
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delight
The station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this place
The tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Onwards, stopping for a crepe and coffee en-route to Notre Dame.Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 304; Walk Miles: 6.22;
After the previous evenings pre sleep shenanigans, and somewhat predictably, I woke very early at sparrows cough and looking for my morning caffeine bump start. Rather than return the favour of noisily packing I slipped out of the room and downstairs to talk with the receptionist, barely awake at this point in her overnight shift.
Nope - no coffee to be had on the premises, but maybe a boulangerie locally? But unsure as to where that might be.
Happily the next door shop provided salvation.
6:30am and the recently opened boulangerie was already busy. Fresh coffee and newly baked pastry. I sat outside watching Paris life starting to move up through its gear changes for another manic day.
Refreshed I returned to the dorm. My plan had been to take a meandering route to the station and start to head for the UK. But, as I noted earlier, this a.m. sightseeing approach hadn't really worked for me, so by 7am, rather than just hang around, I decided to pack and head off.
There may have been a bit of clanging made when emptying my locker and packing to go.
Purely accidental I can assure you.
Good morning you sleepyheads (Karma can be a bitch folks)
Effectively a straight line route, with little need to check for course changes, gave me an opportunity to more fully appreciate the layout of Paris on pavements relatively empty of pedestrians and bike traffic steadily increasing.
It felt like Paris is not a city per se, but a group of districts pressed together. The Arrondissesments shown on the map often had distinct centres for bars, restaurants & shopping. Rather than try to "see" Paris any future trip should instead be looking at exploring some of the Arrondissesments.
For me Paris is more for passing through, possibly catching a meal on the way, rather than spending any length of time here.
The city traffic is manic, and travelling around, even on foot, can be a lengthy process requiring care.
I didn't use metro services in any of my stop overs, partly to avoid theft risk, partly I'm not a fan of sardine packed underground travelling, but mostly so that I could see the place I was moving through. But when compared to Amsterdam & Strasbourg, with their highly effective tram networks, you can really feel the benefits from a huge reduction in street traffic. And an easy way to view a city with little effort.
Eglise Saint-Ambroise?
After an hour I was nearing the station so I took the opportunity of restful break at a fortuitous bar I came across L'Atmosphere. A small oasis of calm. Sat by a canal, listening to parakeets (again) with a small park nearby I watched the early morning school run progressing. Idyllic and highly recommended as a rest stop for those with time to kill between train connections at the nearby Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est. With a quieter metro connection just across the canal.
Onto Gare du Nord to check departure information. My attempt to check in early failed. French Eurostar permits entry 2 hours before departure time.
4 hours to kill then.
I wandered the station concourse, exploring the various nooks and crannies, before heading back to the streets and wandering the area north of the station.
Inevitably I ended up outside yet another bar for coffee, to avoid the increasing pedestrian traffic. Plenty of small places to choose from rather than the large and brash tourist eateries opposite the station entrance.
And hats off to this guy. As a sighted person I felt my 5 primary senses were barely enough to cope with the Paris mania. (The other pedestrian was just passing and was providing no assistance)
A few visits to the local Carrefor, to stock up with food/water at a reasonable price, and I was mostly just kicking my heels until departure.
Finally I returned to the Eurostar barrier. Another EES check (specs off this time!) which was really well operated. A room of 20+ terminals, staff on hand to assist the process, and a watchful technician, who I had spotted earlier starting up the terminals, watching for any equipment failure.
A positive implementation of the EES system, and something the airports, I've used, could learn from.
Pinged at the X-Ray (Leatherman again) the security guard was intrigued by the tool and smilingly waved me on (Take note Notre Dame - sensible precautions)
Both border checks cleared the departure lounge was very well equipped with eateries and, if you bothered to walk a little further, plenty of seating. As each Eurostar service can handle 750 - 900 passengers its a welcoming approach. I had time to sit and watching the lengthening queue of 200+ passengers awaiting boarding for the train before mine.Labels: interrail
MON 4/5/2026 Day 6 PASS 4 Strasbourg to PARIS
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delight
The station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this place
The tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Onwards, stopping for a crepe and coffee en-route to Notre Dame.Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 246; Walk Miles: 7.52;
An early morning wander around Strasbourg, via a circular route back to the station.
Part of my planning assumed an afternoon evening explore, followed by a morning sightseeing. In practice its turned out that I cover most of what I want to see on arrival day leaving me hanging around waiting for my departure time to come around - something to consider planning a future trip.
The Interrail pass is a wonderful device for flexible European travel, save where seat reservations are required. This means pre booking far in advance to ensure the key link is in place, which then fixes the need to book accommodation etc etc. That takes away much of the Pass flexibility in practice.
Its a balance of travel cheap, flexible and slow(ish) or move fast, but become tied down to specific date/time events. I tried both. I prefer the flexible as even the no-reservation-required inter city services far exceed the UK version. But sometimes I had far to go, and just wanted to get there.
As in life, its a balance dependant on mood and requirements.
Today is a test of the famed TGV rail service, which has to be seat reserved, so clearly I should have booked for an earlier departure time.
Lesson learnt. At least it meant a different poke around Strasbourg to explore the back streets, so a pleasure, not a chore.
I eventually find myself sitting in a boulangerie opposite the station to kill some time (a wonderful French initiative, a pity we nothing similar in the UK)
Another Strasbourg delightThe station concourse is full of people waiting for .... well whatever it is, it's clearly not here yet.
For some reason there is an 4 man army unit patrolling the station with semi-automatic rifles. I check news sources on my phone, but nothing obviously worrying happening in France.
And then the departure board lights up with the Strasbourg TGV platform details, and I follow the crowd as the majority of the waiting crowd all stream in the same direction.
The TGV is a delight clocking 175mph+ to cover the 246 miles to Paris in 1hr 45 min.
Now this is train travel.
The European train network is extremely well put together, and despite the German network's limited ability to arrive on time, its a seamless mass transit system that can cover huge distances effortlessly.
I'm spat out of Paris's Gare d'Est station into a cacophony of people, traffic and police sirens.
And its raining. Hard.
My plan was to take a Parisienne tour by foot, but part of travel is adaptability, so I take a taxi to the Eiffel Tower.
10 minutes to cover 2 miles in central Paris, before we actually start towards the tower. Paris traffic has to be experienced to be believed. Cars, coaches, motorbikes and cycles coming from all directions. Horns honking and a steady sound of police/ambulance sirens. The soundtrack of Paris.
La belle France anyone?
Can't remember the name of this placeThe tower is, well the tower, so I move onto the long (oh so very long) walk looking down on the Seine towards the Louvre. Pass numbers of bridges, monuments, huge buildings etc etc. Paris seems to have thrown up something enormous after every historic event. Impressive at first but becomes a little repetitive after the first hour.
Still it rains. Stops. Rains. Stops.
I'd decided beforehand that I wasn't going to visit the The Louvre museum, just take a look at the building and its distinctive glass pyramids. Entry to the Louvre is ridiculously expensive, and it turned out to be a good decision based on the large amount of school parties and coaches around the entry area.
Still its an enormous set of buildings and clearly needs a long day and an early start to justify a proper visit.
Veering away from the river Seine I wander some back streets indicating nearby construction work. Looks like the well publicised reconstruction of ND is in fact still underway.
Entrance is via the airport style up/down barriers.
It continues to rain.
Hard.
Most of us pedestrians walk in an orderly queue, but as I meet and remeet the parallel queue there are increasingly wide gaps. Courtesy of the tour guide parties. What a surprise.
Notre Dame-aka work in progress
Finally I reach the entrance, only to find a security X-Ray machine.
Which I set off.
As I'm carrying my home on my back for a week it includes a mini leatherman tool, which has happily passed through security checks around the world (except for one day trip at Southampton airport many years ago)
And no, I cannot take it out to leave at security (No such problem entering Cologne cathedral).
Rather than seek (and pay for) a luggage locker "elsewhere" (thanks for that help Monsieur Securite) I decide enough is enough with the rain, and head off towards my hostel for the night.
Swinging back towards central Paris I slog down busy streets admiring the graffiti, avoiding wild cyclists.
The non descript entry to the hostel (The People - Paris Nation) belies 6 floors of dormitories all accessible via key card (No link; No recommendation)
I booked a 4 male room. Over my stay there was nil engagement/response from any of the other occupants. One remained behind their bed privacy curtain, with the light on during the day, which was off at night. That was the only way I knew that there was an occupant in situ.
Not exactly an interchange of travellers, tips and cultures.
A sterile place. No way to make a coffee. Plenty of movement & noise, but no soul.
After a long walk I decided to explore the area, and then feed myself.
Walking city streets is far more difficult than walking in the countryside. There is a constant stop/start as you reach road junctions, with continual assessment of avoiding People In A Rush.
Happily, after 20 minutes, I stopped for a beer predictably just a few doors down from the hostel, and liked the place so much that I stayed for a celebratory meal.
French cuisine really is amongst the best I have ever eaten.
I sat and watched the madness that is the Parisienne traffic & evening commute milling around the Place de la Nation and soaked up the street life scenes.
Finally back to the hostel for an early night of rest.
30 minutes after lights out the final occupant turned up. There then followed 30 mins of the sounds of luggage zipping, unzipping, zipping etc etc all to the wavering light of a mobile phone torch wandering the room's walls. I got up for a break, and when I returned I could finally hit the sack and sleep, sirens wafting me to sleep.
Labels: interrail
SUN 3/5/2026 Day 5 PASS 3 Cologne to Strasbourg
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Today was a deliberate mix to take the slow train down the Rhine valley. Travelling to Frankfurt via KOBLENZ & MAINZ forcing the rail planner to select the correct route.
The 2hr 20 min trip worked well. The Rhine was a mixture of working boats, and tourist river/day trip cruisers. All set deep in a valley harkening back to feudal times.
It was a regret when the valley finally flattened out leading to my first change of the day at Frankfurt where I'd built in a short break to visit the city.
Unfortunately I caught myself out. The Germans, quite understandably, use German place names and descriptions for their towns and rail network. So I found myself wandering a truly enormous terminal on the assumption it was Frankfurt centre. The view from outside the station sort of gave me a clue that I'd stepped off a station too early and was at the Frankfurt airport terminal.
Not Frankfurt city centre!
On the plus side a truly impressive rail/airport connections point and a reasonably priced place to grab a bite to eat.On the downside, when I hopped the missing stop, I was relieved that I only had a short stop over as the initial view from the station was a huge deterrent, especially after Cologne.
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
I'm told Frankfurt is a lot better away from the station, but I've no burning desire to find out after my initial view.
Now onto the slower trains towards Strasbourg.
Offenburg became an impromptu visit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
The train from Frankfurt arrived slightly late for my connection (most of the German trains seemed to do this) But it wouldn't have mattered as the train doors refused to open on arrival. So a quick wander around the area, and a stop off for a small beer as I waited for the next connection.
All part of travelling.
The final all stops train across the border to Strasbourg next, a place I last visited as a schoolboy over 50 years ago.
But Germany wasn't quite finished with me yet. As we left the second station the train stopped, waited, and then reversed back to the station to allow the preceding train, which had broken down, to be recovered. A bit of a delay, in a carriage increasingly heating up in the afternoon sun. But interesting watching the German day trippers response to it all. No drama. Just shrugged and let it blow over them. Good approach.
Finally Strasbourg and my final country on this trip. Another well placed station, which weirdly I didn't photograph, despite sitting in/around it for a couple of hours.But the town is delightful, and better than I remember it.
A mix of the new, and the medieval. All of which is very walkable, as I discovered after I checked into my hotel Le Kléber Hôtel And this one I do recommend. Well placed. Ensuite bathroom. Coffee making facilites and literally 5-10 mins from a selection of places to eat.
A chilling wind was starting up as I wandered the streets assessing somewhere to eat, but there is always something interesting to look at, around each Strasbourg street corner.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
And finally a fine meal at La Corde a Linge restaurant
..and yes, les escargots were magnifique. The chef had even done the hard work of deshelling them.
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 224 ; Walk Miles: 4.33 ;
(change at Frankfurt and Offenburg)
A very early start to escape the hotel. Surprisingly coffee was in the foyer so at least they were trying.
Cologne early on a Sunday - you have the streets mostly to yourself.
Except for a multitude of street cleaners who were considerately and carefully avoiding spraying high pressure water hoses near the many homeless sleeping areas around the cathedral square.
cathedral from the river
The Rhine-todays plan
Not Frankfurt city centre!
Frankfurt at last. Perhaps not.
one of the many fine Strasbourg churches
around every corner a new surprise
Labels: interrail
SAT 2/5/2026 Day 4 PASS 2 Hoogeveen to Cologne
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 185 ; Walk Miles: 5.07;
An early start from Hoogeveen and onto Germany and destination Cologne (Koeln), with a brief smoke stopover outside Utrecht station (the famous treaty town recalled from long ago history lessons)
Exiting Cologne station is an experience.
The hugely impressive cathedral (and it truly is huge) is adjacent to the station, so a double whammy of crowds. And an awful lot of homeless people despite a heavy police presence.
Very much the focal point of the town.
Koeln Cathedral
And being a German bank holiday the streets were rammed with shoppers, promenaders in their finery (yes really) and the young just enjoying life.
Certainly the biggest shopping centre I've ever experienced. And at 7.30pm the streets were still teeming. Every brand name I could think of was on the high street(s) Including C&A and even Moleskin (the waterproof notepad brand)
Forget the famous Cologne Xmas fair, if shopping is your interest, come at any time.
Even the intermittent rain and thunder didn't deter these crowds.
But first a couple of cigar shops to visit. The germans really seem to love their cigars. First time I've been in a shop where there is a in-shop dedicated cigar smoking area, equipped with coffee and a large humidor.
Happily these were to the north of the town centre so I had the opportunity to explore more of Cologne away from the primary shopping area.
And then onto my Hotel Brandenburger Hof, handily 5 minutes north of the station.
Decent single room with a shared shower/toilet.
But sadly lacking any coffee making facilities.
Or breakfast (lack of staff apparently)
(Again, no link, not recommended except as a bed for the night and a handy location for the station)
Labels: interrail
FRI 1/5/2026 DAY 3 Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 0; Walk Miles: 3.61;
A couple of local trips to Gronigen and coffee by the canal, and later the local town and nature reserve.
A very rural location.
But a chance to talk with the restorers of this working mill, dating back to the 1870s. The Dutch can come across as gruff at times, and the guttural language doesn't help change a foreign visitor's view of this. But show interest in a person's passion and these barriers come tumbling down.
Each wooden section is numbered so that the mill can be dismantled and rebuilt in another location. The restorer told me that he that as he worked on the recommissioning he could feel the character of the original builder.
Hands across time.
Labels: interrail
THU 30/4/2026 Day 2 Amsterdam to Hoogeveen
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
Time for the museum. Initially I was glad I'd booked in advance, for a specific timed slot, as the gallery was sold out for the day. Decent luggage storage lockers inside but the gallery itself was a disappointment after seeing the Van Goch exhibition in London last year.
An artist, during their life, will play with a variety of styles and influences as they build their experience, and try to make a living, but much of these are dead ends, or frankly not very important except to the artist themself.
The permanent collection felt like many of the artwork pieces were there because VG painted them, not that he necessarily intended them to ever be seen.
Meanwhile the BIG pieces were missing.
Switching over to the temporary exhibition I finally found one of VG's sunflowers, hung as far away as possible in an an attempt to drag the tourist (and it certainly was all tourists) through everything else until finally getting here.
Having seen this representation in a couple of guises in London (VG knocked off around 50 of these I think - he did like his sunflowers) the impact on me was low.
Not really helped by the press of those trying to selfie themself with the picture. Along with the guided tour groups who stood in a semi circle in front of key hangings, obscuring the view of the rest of us, I quickly decided to call it a day
45 minutes, entry fee 22.5 euros. Not a trip highlight.
No idea what this one is called - lol
By now, more familiar with the layout of Amsterdam, I headed directly for the station using my Netherlands Rail app to buy a one way ticket for Hoogeveen and a couple of nights stay with family.
AmsterdamAn interesting vibe to the town. Bicycles everywhere. Pedestrians are clearly the second class here, and it was an rapid education in cycle lanes, rights of way and recognising cycling rule breakers. Useful lessons that would stand me in good stead for the rest of this trip.
Be nimble, or be mowed down. Although to be fair I didn't see one collision in my time away.
NetherlandsGod its flat. We joke about it but experiencing the flatness of the place is awe inspiring. And with the terrain, a constant wind.
This is why we travel. To experience a place one has to be there, no guide book can ever provide this sort of physical and emotional connection. Labels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 70; Walk 5 Miles: ;
Plan for today was to visit the Van Goch collection at Stedelijk Museum, and then move on for an Off-Pass family visit.
Despite the previous long day I was up and out early whiling away the time until my prebooked timeslot arrived for the gallery.
With time to kill I wandered over to the museum, which is in a enormous area containing a number of museums and galleries - smart idea, and then I generally mooched around taking in the sights in the weak sunshine
Google maps was, as always on this trip, invaluable for getting around and finding key locations.
Seeking coffee & cake it led me to Bakers and Roasters cafe (Branch: Eerste Jacob van Campenstraat 54)
From the outside it appears a small & quiet cafe, but inside the place was packed. Very popular and lots of repeat customers.
Highly recommended.
I sat out of the way, at the counter and chatted with the manager as he worked. A well travelled man, originally from Brazil, via New Zealand, he felt typical of many of the people I seemed to encounter on this trip. A useful insight in living in the Netherlands.
No idea what this one is called - lolLabels: interrail
WED 29/4/26 Day 1 PASS 1 home to Amsterdam
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet
Amsterdam Central station
First sights of the famous Amsterdam canals system (apparently 7 canals laid out in a horseshoe configuration I later discovered)
Labels: interrail
Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Rail Miles: 325; Walk Miles: 4.67;
Trip to Waterloo uneventful, and thrown into the chaos that is London in the rushhour.
2.86 mile walk north to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar, picking up a cheap Tesco meal deal as I went.
Border process relatively smooth and easy, with my first use of EES process (specs on)
Eurostar fast and impressive.
Off at Amsterdam, and trying not to look like a gormless tourist (or an easy mark for pickpockets) but savouring the various canals & the sights of the Netherlands, it was a gentle stroll down to the night's hostel ClinkCoco (no link - the place isn't worth any recommendation)
Had to pause for a beer and watch the passing people though - after all it is a holiday.
Luggage locked away time for a bit of wandering before quick meal and bed.
A very long day.
ring tailed parakeet Amsterdam Central station
Labels: interrail
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Towards Holwell Tor
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
Saddle Tor
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Haytor Rocks
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
View to Black Hill
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
Smallacombe Rocks
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Safe to camp?
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
