Thursday, January 2
Dartmoor - Epilogue
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
Saturday, April 13
Dartmoor - Epilogue
A noisy night, but no drama.
A quick change of gear back at the car and then, reluctantly, heading off home.
A final finger flick from the moorland world as I made my way down to the A38.......
Life is different here, and waiting is just a way of passing the time.
Labels: dartmoor
Dartmoor NIGHT 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 TOP TOR(AGAIN)-PIL TOR-HOLLOW TOR
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Yet again a short break due to ongoing work/family constraints – in 2025 that will finally change.
Three nights wild camp, and ten tors visited, but distance covered - sod all really.
Perversely I’m in my best shape for decades, with strong hill fitness and load carrying ability, due to a regime over several years, of regular distance walking and a bit of self taught Pilates
(and a good chiro helps!)
On reflection, this is a highly lucrative payback from the many days of (at times) mind numbing boredom, covering 1000+miles each year, in all weathers, deliberately seeking out rougher terrain and long distances.
A pair of £250 boots now lasts me around 9 months before the soles and footbeds are starting to let go.
The reward - I can comfortably walk for a couple of hours, maintaining a very fast pace, without requiring rest or refreshment. No aches or pains afterwards. Stamina up. Weight down.
(Perhaps I should monetise it into a motto'd plan as an Interweby Influencer.....Nah, such self indulgent twaddle is not for me. And you won't find my image on the web despite a couple of decades of blogging - suck on that Mr AI)
In my mid-sixties, I’m still thankful to be able to solo walk/wild camp in the remoteness of Dartmoor.
Each time enriched by the experience.
When so many of my generation can barely shuffle across a room....or worse.
This getting old lark is a right bugger, but it doesn't have to be a constraint, given a little luck with health.
And to to walk and wildcamp on Dartmoor continues to give such a boost, for my heart and mind, then the cost is one I’m eager(huh) to pay.
Right enough of this - time for a long walk now the sun has finally decided to show itself after so many weeks of gloom.
Here's to a good 2025 y'all.
Now get off your laptop/phone and get out there while you still can!
Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 4: Tuesday 10/9/2024 HOLLWELL TOR (return home)
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
Wednesday, January 1
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
Saturday, April 13
Dartmoor - Epilogue
A noisy night, but no drama.
A quick change of gear back at the car and then, reluctantly, heading off home.
A final finger flick from the moorland world as I made my way down to the A38.......
Life is different here, and waiting is just a way of passing the time.
Labels: dartmoor
Dartmoor NIGHT 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 TOP TOR(AGAIN)-PIL TOR-HOLLOW TOR
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Sheltered from the wind the evening's entertainment was to watch construction work on the saddle between Haytor Rocks. No idea what the pair of diggers were up to, although I did find signs of path works near Saddle Tor the following day.
It may says something about the locality that the machinery was eventually locked down in a strange configuration, hard up up against the eastern wall of Haytor, bucket and arm high in the air to lean against the rockface. Although whether this was as protection from the weather, or to deter potential digger thieves, was unclear.
The weather turned overnight, as it always seems to hereabouts, with gustier wind and gathering rainclouds.
All part of wandering across high ground - it goes, quite literally, with the territory.
I made my way across to the Granite Tramway, still defiantly standing despite two centuries of existence amidst a hostile environment.
They knew how to lay a rail track in those days.
A clear path leading onto Holwell Tor (750 776) for a brief visit, at which point the rain finally arrived.
Cutting back between Haytor and Saddle I headed for the car and the trip back home, now eager to be finally out of the wind.
Back at the car, hopping on one foot whilst trying to change out of waterproof trousers and boots, the wind had a final laugh, picking up my other sock from the car boot and blasting it across the car park. As the rain hammered down.
(Haven't we all been there?)
Always seems happens at precisely the right moment of personal exposure.
Only quick action on my part prevented it disappearing away with the wind and down into Haytor Vale far below.
Perhaps to start a local legend of the one-legged figure, hopping across the desolate moorland, everlastingly searching for the other sock.
Or not.
I can't recall a single night when I've wild camped in this immediate area without wind gusts, despite the map topography indicating protection from the prevailing south westerly airflow.
But as a simple start/stop jumping off point for my car journey from Dorset, with a quick and low risk access to a tortop wild camp, whatever the conditions, it’s worth the irritation.
Now that I've eventually visited the area behind Haytor Rocks I've little interest in returning, and my initial instinctive avoidance of the vicinity felt validated.
Great for a family day potter about, but compared to open moorland - not particularly attractive.
Now, with only a couple more Tors to tick off that's the majority of this area now complete, except for an occasional daytrip to visit the few outliers left.
Labels: dartmoor, National Park, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 3: Monday 9/9/2024 SADDLE TOR - HAYTOR TOR-BLACK HILL-(LEIGHON TOR)-SMALLACOMBE ROCKS
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Sunday, November 3
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
Saturday, April 13
Dartmoor - Epilogue
A noisy night, but no drama.
A quick change of gear back at the car and then, reluctantly, heading off home.
A final finger flick from the moorland world as I made my way down to the A38.......
Life is different here, and waiting is just a way of passing the time.
Labels: dartmoor
Dartmoor NIGHT 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 TOP TOR(AGAIN)-PIL TOR-HOLLOW TOR
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Dartmoor. Sun? Surely not.
Making my way back to the car via Sharpitor I drove over to the Haytor area looking for a safe spot to leave the car overnight. After all – Haytor is known locally as a prime area for car break-ins.
I've been avoiding directly visiting this area for a number of years, electing to wildcamp on a number of surrounding tors.
But, inevitably it was finally time to explore the area around the dreaded Haytor Rocks - Dartmoor Ground Zero for tourists and ice cream vans.
But first a magical mystery tour of the (very) narrow road which circumnavigates the whole of Easdon Tor (733 822) Marked on the Dartmoor camping map as ok for wildcamping, it looked great on the map. Far from through foot traffic, and a solitary location.
But after a half hour drive on increasingly narrow roads I could see few safe places to park up and marked it down as a walk-in visit for a possible future date.
Back then to the immediate Haytor area. A dry day, with a screaming wind putting off many of the day trippers cautious of losing the tops off their ice-cream cornet.
Finally I settled on the CP at 753 764, and headed up onto Saddle Tor (751 763). A pleasant spot, much quieter than Haytor,but not a day to tarry in the wind.
As you may expect the tracks onto Haytor are easy to spot. From Saddle Tor I worked my way upwards onto the western slope towards the top and decided the effort of climbing onto the rocks themselves really wasn’t worth the effort.
Back to Haytor Quarries where the the plan was to take a direct line towards Black Hill (762 787) in an attempt to find/visit Leighon Tor (758 786)
This is not marked on my 2015 OS map (it was added late 2022 I’ve since discovered), but I’d spotted it on the interactive Dartmoor camping map and was intrigued as a spot to spend the night.
Along the way I spent a fruitless 20 minutes trying to follow tracks through the gorse to the north of the quarries before finally accepting defeat and, for me, a rare occasion of retracing my steps back to a more clearly visible track heading north towards the Templar Way.
Much, much easier. Being an intrepid trailblazer is all well and good. But a mixture of pack weight, gorse and rocky/broken ground eventually persuaded me that I’d prefer my ankles the way I like them – unbroken.
Nothing ventured…..
After that it was a clear and easy route to Black Hill.
A bit of faffing about in an attempt to confirm I’d visited Leighon Tor. Or perhaps not?
It’s a bit of a bugger to locate as the excellent Tors of Dartmoor site can confirm, also explaining the eventual addition to later OS maps.
The area to the NE of Haytor is great for a ramble, but with no real distinguishing features, or wind shelter, not that interesting.
Which brings me to yet another 'right to roam' conundrum this trip.
I eventually set up for the night in the ' wildcamping allowed' area (or was I?) at Smallacombe Rocks (755 783) in an attempt to avoid the worst of the NW wind was becoming irritating.
That's the trouble with arbitrary interactive maps when your actually present on the ground.
I could see more sheltered spots nearby, but according to the permissive map they were out of bounds.
Meanwhile the permissive area, to the north of my eventual overnight spot, is actually a steep slope covered in bracken. A promising spot for a leg break, midges, and looked pretty bare of ground to camp. Even the animal tracks are missing.
Yet its ok to camp there.
Looks good on a map. Useless, if not dangerous, on the actual ground.
Ho hum.
I bedded in for the evening, well sheltered from the wind. Not really caring whether I was in or out of any permissive boundary.
There’s some really fine flat and sheltered spots around the rocks. On a sunny summer’s day they would be a delight.
But September winds. Hmmm,
But at least a view of Haytor in the distance. Without the associated foot traffic
View to Haytor from Smallcombe
And early in the evening I had a more welcome visitor for short while - the rabbits here are Huge.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, mapping, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 2: Sunday 8/9/2024 SHARPITOR - PEEK HILL TOR-LEATHER TOR
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
Saturday, November 2
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
Saturday, April 13
Dartmoor - Epilogue
A noisy night, but no drama.
A quick change of gear back at the car and then, reluctantly, heading off home.
A final finger flick from the moorland world as I made my way down to the A38.......
Life is different here, and waiting is just a way of passing the time.
Labels: dartmoor
Dartmoor NIGHT 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 TOP TOR(AGAIN)-PIL TOR-HOLLOW TOR
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Heading bright (not) and early back to the car, the continued intermittent rain meant that my plan circular of tors to the NE & SW of Burrator Reservoir was likely to be a boggy dismal affair.
One of the basic tenets of successful wildcamping is adaptability, so Plan B time (or perhaps C or even D) Something in the same area, to visit new locations, but without the concern over low cloud navigation and wet boots.
The easiest access onto Sharpitor was along the gentle ridge from the car park at 557 708.
I’ve nothing to prove on walkabouts nowadays. I wander at will with the enjoyment of the experience being the aim, not miles covered etc. Got the T Shirts for that already ta very much.
If I can save a walk uphill, carrying a full load, I’ve learnt a little bit of careful review of my start point saves wear and tear on the knees & hips. As they remain fully functional, despite impending retirement age, I’ll stick with the approach.
And so it proved to be this time. Initially I had to keep a wary eye on a couple of dog walkers trying to prevent their semi-pit bulls from ‘playing’ with the livestock, trying not to hang my head in despair yet again.
Uncontrolled dogs have been an increasing concern for the last 12+ months whenever I’ve been out on the New Forest. So much so that I now carry a citronella spray as a norm.
Partly for the dog.
More for the owner.
I figure training the trainer might be a more productive application of the repellent discharge – this stuff is expensive after all.
Within a very short time I was crossing over SHARPITOR [TOR?] (559 703) where I’ve camped a couple of times before (That was back in 2007 & 2021 according to my trip diaries, although it only part of those ever made it onto this blog. Troubled times back then and my head wasn’t in it)
South onto Peek Hill Tor (556 699) a spot with an excellent view, but far too exposed to the wind today. So E to Leather Tor (562 699)
This is a weird one. More reminiscent of the Lake District rocks. Shucking off my sack I scrambled up to the start of the rugged ridgeline, took one look along the edge, and scrambled back down. I know an ankle breaker when I see one.
Always that necessary judgement of risk to be assessed when out solo, and its kept me healthy and safe all these years.
Pitching for the night to the W of the tor I was supping my first brew when I spotted a group of walkers bashing their way through the scree & bracken clearly intent on climbing up the steeper side of the tor.
I had a friendly word – IMHO this is not the sort of clamber for the inexperienced, but the guide (some sort of outdoor pursuit set-up?) sounded like he knew the area and the terrain, so I was entertained over coffee watching a string of brightly clothed people work their way up onto and along the ridge disappearing away into the distance.
All safe, so well led that man. I wouldn’t have liked the responsibility for the group. But I wildcamp solo, so maybe a riskier prospect. But then I have sole responsibility for the safety of my party, and he’s a really sensible and pleasant chap, even if stingy with any sort of guiding fee.
Another typical Dartmoor evening with rain, wind, rain, low cloud.. and rain.
But the view in the gaps - just right.
Labels: dartmoor, hints, National Park, planning, right to roam, wild camping
DARTMOOR DAY 1: Sat 7/9/2024 VIXEN TOR - FEATHER TOR-HECKWOOD TOR-PEW TOR
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)
4 tors ticked off in less than an hour - more a leg stretch than a walk. But after the early drive it was all I really required for a kit shakedown exercise.Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
Saturday, April 13
Dartmoor - Epilogue
A noisy night, but no drama.
A quick change of gear back at the car and then, reluctantly, heading off home.
A final finger flick from the moorland world as I made my way down to the A38.......
Life is different here, and waiting is just a way of passing the time.
Labels: dartmoor
Dartmoor NIGHT 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 TOP TOR(AGAIN)-PIL TOR-HOLLOW TOR
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Family issues had meant that this was my first wildcamping trip this year.
Frustrating really as my exercise regime during the last few years had really benefitted my walking pace & pack carrying stamina.
Ho hum. Pay it forward, never a false economy in these, my advancing years.
But leaving it this late in the year meant that I wasn't over optimistic of stringing together many nights on the tops.
After the usual dreary drive across from Dorset, and a little exploratory reconnaissance, I loaded up at the car park west of Merrivale (GR 540 750)
A typically dreary start, with intermittent rain throughout the day.
A wander down to Vixen Tor (GR 541 742) for a looksee at just what "private land" offers.
Ringed by barbwire (satisfyingly broken down in places) it presumes to be a jealously guarded spot mimicking some frontline battle line.
Which for many it still remains - being an early sign of things to come.
I originally mentioned it back in 2007 and 17 years later it remains deeply symbolic of the expanding conflict between private ownership and public access.
And to be honest, really not that great a spot to safeguard from the marauding hordes of drooling ramblers milling around the spot.
Well not really.
But at least the welcoming sign made me smile - best of luck enforcing!
Onwards to tick off Feather Tor (534 741) .....
....and its view onto Heckwood Tor (537 738) the next waypoint .....
....where there was a suitably atmospheric glimpse of Great Mis Tor in the distance, a favourite overnight spot of mine with panoramic views down to the sea beyond Plymouth.
The leat and cross discovered along the way made a pleasant photo opportunity, initially suggesting a future wildcamping spot for a long hot sunny day. But it quickly became clear that this was a focal point for walkers in the area. Quickly crossed off my list - I prefer more solitary resting spots.
A short hop and already I was at the evening's camping spot Pew Tor (532 734)Labels: dartmoor, Fitness, National Park, right to roam, vixen tor, wild camping
Dartmoor - Epilogue
A noisy night, but no drama.
A quick change of gear back at the car and then, reluctantly, heading off home.
A final finger flick from the moorland world as I made my way down to the A38.......
Life is different here, and waiting is just a way of passing the time.
Labels: dartmoor
Dartmoor NIGHT 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 TOP TOR(AGAIN)-PIL TOR-HOLLOW TOR
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
A noisy night, but no drama.
A quick change of gear back at the car and then, reluctantly, heading off home.
A final finger flick from the moorland world as I made my way down to the A38.......
Life is different here, and waiting is just a way of passing the time.
Labels: dartmoor
Dartmoor NIGHT 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 TOP TOR(AGAIN)-PIL TOR-HOLLOW TOR
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
PM:
Knowing that I needed to travel back to Dorset the following day I opted to stay on the east side of the moor. Whilst the weather wasn't especially bad, bar the day of rain, the wind had been steadily increasing so I decided to put the moor between myself and the westerlies blowing in their degrading weather fronts.
Back to where I started my trip, to check out another couple of easy access spots. Possible jumping off points for the future trips as the permissive wild camping virago finally settles down.
(Like most of the local wild campers I spoke to on this trip I did take head of the DNPA advice/instructions when deciding where to camp, but not slavishly so. Anyone keen enough to chastise "illegal" wild camping is more than welcome to come and find us quietly carrying on carrying on as we have always done, practising responsible wild camping, mostly solo in my experience. Despite that all my wildcamps were in 'approved' areas. This time)
Whilst exploring I discovered a car park at GR 735 768 offering quick & simple access to a few tors, and hopefully far enough away to avoid those problems associated with the Haytor anthill antics.
Any easy 10 minute wander up onto TOP TOR (736 762) A quick look around and then onto PIL TOR (735 795) to look for alternative sites. While on the wander I checked out HOLLOW TOR (550 842) All pretty much of a muchness with a westerly now gusting to 40mph
Back to PIL TOR looking for a spot sheltered from the wind. On a windless day there would have been plenty of choice, but tonight, with showers now drifting through, it was time to make the best of what I had to work with.
As normal, I checked to see what the local animals where doing. Living daily here they simply demonstrate the best way to operate to anyone who takes the time to watch their behaviour. And at present they were nailed behind any shelter they could find, stomachs firmly on the ground.
Which is why I found myself evicting the residents, clearing sheep droppings, and setting up quickly behind a solid rock outcrop, free from any potentially loose material that could be dislodged.
But the ground here is hard!
In 14 years of using clamcleat tentpegs I've barely scratched them. Tonight I bent two trying to get a secure placement.
Clearly the tent would be in for a battering later so it needed to be firmly nailed down tonight. But I'm an old hand where bad weather is concerned, and soon my evening meal was cooking with me thankfully finally out of the wind.
5 nights of wild camping in a row. Weather not too typically Dartmoor, but not at its best. But hey that's Dartmoor. Take what you get and adapt.
There's enjoyment to be had in abundance, as long as you open yourself to whatever comes your way.
People often ask me why I do this.
But so few seem to listen to my answer.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor 5/5 Mon 3/7/23 BROAD BARROW TOR-KING TOR-SHAPLEY TOR-VITIFER MINE WORKINGS
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
AM:
Broad Barrow
overnight-King Tor-Shapley Tor-Vitifer Mine workings
NNE from BROAD BARROW and onto KINGS TOR (709 814) and the sunken barrow
West to handrail along the field wall onto SHAPLEY TOR (699 820)
Making may way back to the road passing Grimspound I crossed onto Headland Warren, aiming to make way own route just below the hilltop.
Oops - Bad news/Good news this morning it seemed.
Bad news: The sheep tracks soon petered out and I had to take great care with my footing due to the heather covering the many dips/troughs running across the hillside (I later found out the path at the foot of the hill was equally as treacherous, due to erosion from those doing the Warren House/Grimspound tourist friendly route)
Good news: Whortleberries! I'd read they grew on Dartmoor, but never really come across them until now - or perhaps they were out of season. After a quick google check (like that's definitive these days!) I tasted a few and to my delight found that they were sweet and absolutely gorgeous;
And the whole hillside was covered with the bushes.
Definitely due a revisit. I've never been into wild food foraging, but I'll remember this spot for the future. Especially as its such a bugger to walk over it appears to be rarely troubled.
Back to the old mine workings below Warren Head, on a truly abysmal track. A pretty spot on a quiet day, but always going to be hellishly busy in the Summer months.
My trip notes tell me that the trip out yesterday took approx 1hr, with a 1.5hr return. That's a round trip of 7 miles. Bearing in mind I had the weight of a loaded pack for the overnighter I think I had a better experience compared to poking around Vinter Mineworking like so many others.
And I got free food!
Finally back to the car to move on for my last night.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 4/5 Sun 2/7/23 WHITE TOR - RETURN; BIRCH TOR - HOOKNEY TOR - HAMELDOWN TOR & A WANDER ALONG BROAD BARROW RIDGE
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
P.M: Time for tonight's wildcamp.
I've always wanted to visit GRIMSPOUND, but heard all the usual mutterings about leaving a car in the area/theft hotspot.
But firstly a steak/pint at the ever excellent WARREN HOUSE INN (674 809)Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended
(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
I tucked into the Bennetts Cross car park before heading off for the afternoon
A quick climb onto BIRCH TOR (686 814)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
Not a very sheltered spot, and still rather too many people around, compared to yesterday. But I'm an old hand at this. Once 6pm comes I mostly have the hills to myself, save the occasional local dog walker or runner.
A drop down to GRIMSPOUNDAn interesting spot, but it feels so strangely surrounded by hills. Normally these locations like to see danger coming; But it feels like the Grimspound inhabitants were hiding away?
And now the very steep climb up (well with a water loaded pack) onto HAMELDOWN TOR (703 805) Its just a cairn, so no shelter from the wind, not so bad today.
And as a reward - an easy amble on the TMW track along BROAD BARROW RIDGE to find a spot to wildcamp for the night off the track near BROAD BARROW (705 799)
Plenty of flat spots to pick from with good views all around, and sheltered from the wind by the barrow remains nearby.
Tent pitched (where's JohnHee hiding tonight?)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area. These were placed during WW2 to prevent enemy planes landing. They knew their stuff in those days. Despite the extremely harsh conditions I could see poles dotted all around. Now why do my 'treated' fence posts fall down/break within 4-5 years?
As you can see the ridge track is easy going with fine, fine views. Although I suspect many of the TMW walkers are mostly looking upwards at the long haul from Widecombe. The downhill direction is so much more rewarding. Great views all around.
But boy will that wind ever drop? Its been a constant niggle for four days now, and is now become an irritant.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
A.M:
WHITE TOR - RETURN
An easy return in the morning following the wall south back to the road.
Please try to drop in here. Always a welcome greeting and its hard going when you're totally off mains services and so reliant on oil for cooking/electricity. Trade has been slowly recovering, but the heyday of large numbers of coach trippers hasn't returned post Covid and they deserve whatever support you can give.Always a popular spot with the bikers and horse riders.Recommended(And a chance to take on water for later this evening)
Back to the junction with The Two Moors Way (TMW) and east to HOOKNEY TOR (698 812)
A quick brew and plenty of opportunity to wander the ridge southwards to take in the panoramic views & examine the wooden poles dotting the area.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 3/5 Sat 1/7/23 COX TOR-MIDDLE STAPLE TOR-GREAT STAPLE TOR-ROOS TOR-LYNCH TOR-WHITE TOR (8.7m)
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
From the tor there was a strong track heading southwards to pick up the track aiming for the stone wall crossing White Barrow, and then westwards. Its clearly a well used route, the path wide and increasingly obvious the further I travelled southwards.
It felt enough for the day. Probably around 9 miles, but with a water load on for the latter half.By now the wind had strengthened to Bloody Annoying, so R&R for the rest of the day.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
Time to finally get properly exploring. Dry and clear, but with the ever persistent wind. But thankfully the rain has cleared and visibility is good.
COX TOR to MIDDLE STAPLE TOR (540 576) onto GREAT STAPLE TOR (542 759)
Quickly over ROOS TOR (543 765) and then heading for the stone circle (556 782)
I didn't manage to stay very long. Hearing a noise behind I turned to find a herd of curious ponies, with their foals, had snuck up behind me ... ninja quiet. And like ninjas, due to the young foals, they were potentially a risk. It didn't help that nearby curious cattle had spotted a chance for fun and were working their way across towards me.
So that's the way it was going to be then - one of those days avoiding the locals.
I don't mind livestock, but big and bouncy animals are always a challenge when carrying a full pack, and there isn't a wall or tree for shelter within miles.
Bugger off and leave me alone.
Harsh words may have been aimed their way as a deterrent. Whatever - it seemed to work as I yomped off leaving them to return to their daily cud chewing. Spoilsport that I am.
I was aiming for a meander to take a look at LYNCH TOR (564 806) but needed to take on water for tonight's wildcamp.
Not so easy across relatively featureless moorland.
A detour then down to the stream south of COCKS HILL (555 783), but a pleasant sheltered spot for lunch, and it made the diversion worth the effort.
A typical waterside spot found on so many of my trips. Nothing but the sound of nature, and nil phone signal. It doesn't really take that much effort to get far far away from "civilisation", but I suspect few have ever bothered to come this way.
It's not particularly on-the-way to anywhere, so largely unvisited judging by the lack of tracks. Their loss. There is more to walking than Tor bagging and tromping long distance footpaths.
I find my meandering and response to changing circumstances seem to bring me far more satisfaction.
I contoured along the valley, the usual obstruction strewn going, following upstream until I could safely cross over and then the typical uphill clamber through long tussocks/no obvious tracks until finally crowning Cocks Hill and making my way to LYNCH TOR (564 806)
This tor is a bit of an anti-climax. Less a tor, more a pile of rocks strewn on moorland. My end of day notes read "not very inspiring". Not a place I'll be using for any future wildcamp.
The weather had remained clear, but by now the westerly wind had been picking up, so not a spot for hanging about. Little real shelter, and not much to say for itself except as a stop on the way to elsewhere.
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 2/5 Sat 30/6/23 COX TOR
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
COX TOR (GR 530 761) - an old & dependable wildcamping spot
It started murky and then became increasingly wet.
Dropping from my overnight spot it was an easy leg stretch for very quick return to the car and my relocation for a more leisurely wander.
Nothing like a night alone on the hills to detoxic mind and body
Off to one of my regular spots, at the strangely named (so I've later discovered) Pork Hill Car Park
Not a lot of walkers heading off today, mostly hanging around the car park clutching mugs of soup and hot drinks.
Not a day for wandering without aim.
I must have appeared a solitary sight (if not slighty insane) as I walked off into the rain cloud for the 0.65 mile uphill drag to COX TOR.
Within five minutes I could no longer see the car park ..or the car
Welcome to a murky damp world of mystery and noiselessness, except for the occasional skylark singing high above, somewhere in the gloom.
Hunkered down in the tent for the afternoon, visibility restricted to nearby outcrops.
And for some weird reason, a mole visit.
Hmmm
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor NIGHT 1/5 Fri 29/6/23
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Wednesday, May 10
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
All site material © John Hee - ask before you snatch
A very late arrival, so a quick and convenient pitch for my first night.
Hemsworthy Gate car park and then a short easy path up onto TOP TOR (736 762) 432m
Just watch out for dogwalkers, and their always hungry animals trying to interrupt you when gourmet cooking
Sunny/windy
Labels: dartmoor, wild camping
Dartmoor Tors 5/5/23 - Bonehill Rocks, Bell Tor, Chinkwell Tor and Honeybag Tor
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
..not the greatest panorama
Mostly it rained. Occasionally a bee would wander past the tent (hence the Tor's name?)
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
Now where was I before I went off on that last post ...
The area around Haytor Rocks, as I've said previously, is one I've tended to avoid. But with low visitors around, and poor weather this was a good time to explore further.
After a little mapwork, a quick recce of car parking spots, and some on-line camping map access (Note:Haytor Rocks phone reception was dire for my usually good network) I had a few options to play with.
Ignoring the more mainstream choices (nope - I'm not saying where they are - do your own leg work matey) I parked up at Bonehill Rocks car park (730 774)
Pack loaded from the car boot for an overnighter, with plenty of water onboard I explored the rock outcrop before descending to cross the road and work my way up around the east side of Bell Tor (730 788) and up onto Chinkwell Tor (729 782)
With the wind continuing to blow strongly, and rain intermittent enough to demand full waterproofs, I mooched around for a while mentally marking potential wildcamp spots.
But oh that bloody wind. Howling unceasingly from the south west.
Blow you bugger blow - and did it just!
A steep descent from Chinkwell Tor, and then back up to Honeybag Tor (728 786)
Signs of a recent fire outbreak on the vegetation to the left of the path. Heather now gone for the bees and their summertime honey making?
It took a good 15 minutes to find a spot sheltered enough from the full force of the wind, but there are quite a few choices here.
Tent up, coffee on, watch the world go by.
Occasionally I would explore the Tor surroundings, but I regretted not going back to Chinkwell Tor.
The views on offer were better, even if the wind protection was a little more elusive.
The main highlight of the day was watching a farmer in the field across in the valley herding sheep between fields using the customary tradition of sheepdog ... and a volvo estate.
Well that was a first - you know the weather is poor when the local farmer prefers to use the family 4x4 rather than their trusty tractor or quad bike.
A quiet night. The sheltered spot worked well avoiding the sleep interruption that comes with gusting wind conditions. The frequent rain showers were just the background song of nature after so many years of camping.
The following morning, as expected, I returned to the car through thick raincloud, yesterday's clear route gone, requiring compass work to stay on track.
Through the murk I spotted my vehicle, solitary in the car park, in such filthy weather.
Not the greatest tor I've ever spent a night on, but a pleasant experience, bedding down my gear for my next trip.
And as I travelled back home, I realised that this area offers a real advantage with a quicker travel time and readier access, rather than the lengthy trip I normally take to the Okehampton or Tavistock to access Dartmoor.
Definitely one to ponder for the future.
Sometime soon.
Labels: Bell Tor, Bonehill Rocks, Chinkwell Tor, dartmoor, Honeybag Tor, wild camping
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